Old Pioneer Garden Country Inn

That quiet creek nearby was a lovely extra while I had morning coffee on the rustic back deck. The peace of Unionville made the stay feel like a ten star experience. Inside, it’s full of antiques that give the rooms an old West, stepped-back-in-time feel. The country kitchen has a long family-style table and a wood-burning cook stove, though that stove doesn’t work; there’s an old-fashioned gas range for cooking. It feels a bit like lodging in a museum or old library, with hundreds of books on shelves and tables. With no internet or cell service, browsing them is a good way to pass the time.

The remote setting has its downsides: there were spiders, mice, and signs that mice had been in the house. Still, the surroundings feel peaceful and interesting, with historical sights, wildlife, and farm animals nearby. Inside, it’s like stepping into an elegantly furnished home from another time, with antiques, an old CD player, a grand piano, artwork, and plenty of books.

We spent two hours at breakfast talking with the owner, who made the meal and was 91 when I wrote this, and her son Dave. Their family and Unionville stories could keep you listening for hours. The town once had a population of over 20,000, and Mark Twain lived there for a time. Ask Dave about Twain’s neighbor. I’d planned this as a one-night stop while driving from Utah to Tahoe, but within 20 minutes I knew I’d made a mistake by not staying three days and skipping Tahoe. I’m already planning a 3-5 day trip to take in this piece of Western history. It’s on a gravel road in the middle of the ghost town of Unionville, with no services, so arrive with enough gas and eat dinner beforehand. I recommend the RV park at the south-side freeway exit. There’s no cell service for 20 miles and no WiFi, so expect to unplug. It felt like a once-in-a-lifetime experience, unless, like me, you plan to return.

My girlfriend and I absolutely loved our stay and plan to return. The owners were nice and had lots of good information, and breakfast was a good old-fashioned American meal. I especially enjoyed the waffles. The restored 1860s buildings are comfortable, and the place has a wonderful old-time charm. A cool bed and breakfast, and worth checking out if you’re looking to get away for a while.