Casa Palacio Pilar del Toro

A disaster. The rooms are cold and dark, and there’s no hot water in the showers. The windows sound as if they’re open even when shut, and the atrium roof leaks when it rains. We came as part of a tour, but I’d never recommend this place.

We spent two nights at Hotel Casa Palacio Pilar del Toro, and it became one of the most memorable parts of our trip. The whole place has a romantic, timeless feel, and we quickly came to love it. At first we weren’t sure how to get in. There was a “push” sign, but when the door resisted, I was afraid to push harder in case I knocked it down. A phone number underneath did the trick. I called, and a gentleman arrived within a minute. We’d already checked in online, so he gave us our room number and the entry and room codes. The hotel is a beautifully preserved old palace. Our room had vintage wardrobes, stone floors and wooden beams over the bed, with a timeless antique feel. The bed was very comfortable. The bathroom was clean and functional, though it smelled slightly musty and watery at first. Leaving was just as easy. I emailed the night before to ask what we needed to do, and they replied, “Nothing at all.” The lobby is also a beautiful, authentic Andalusian restaurant, with a fountain and peaceful courtyard. The hallways have classic furniture, old paintings and roses, with quiet elegance everywhere. It’s in a great spot, a short walk from the Alhambra and surrounded by charming cafes, breakfast places, restaurants and small plazas. On our second morning, a group of young dancers started performing spontaneously in the square beside the hotel. It was magical. We’d absolutely recommend staying here if you’re after somewhere atmospheric and romantic.

The staff were lovely and helpful, and the location is amazing. Our room was spacious, but its window faced a nearby building only about 1m away, so there was little air or light and no real view beyond a courtyard. Breakfast was just okay and served at another hotel a 5-minute walk away. Parking was 10 minutes away, and getting around by car was tricky because of the traffic restrictions and the size of the roads.

We only went to the restaurant, not as hotel guests, and had a really enjoyable meal. We were with people from Granada who ordered for us, and the food was delicious and high quality. The waiter was patient and very polite. We sat in the old hotel's enclosed internal courtyard, a small, cozy and beautiful space, so the weather wasn't a factor.