Monteftur

My bicycle broke down during a recent bikepacking trip, so I had to cancel at the last minute. The owner was incredibly kind and understood, and let me cancel without a penalty. Thank you for that kindness. Next time I'm passing through Montefrio, I'll make sure to stay here.

We've stayed here twice now. The room is beautiful and the hosts are very friendly. The views are fantastic, and there are plenty of nearby bars and restaurants offering free tapas with a drink. The village had no Covid cases at all, and it's a photographer's dream.

The apartment was freezing in winter, and I can't understand why Juan didn't tell me what to expect before I booked. I reserved in September 2016 for our 40-day driving trip through Spain and Portugal in January and February 2017. I knew the town was near Cordoba and Granada, but hadn't realized Montefrio was up in the mountains. Juan, the host, did tell me there was no lift. I didn't know there would also be so many steep slopes, with animal droppings on the road that I couldn't identify. From where you can stop the car to unload luggage, there's a lot of uphill walking to the apartment door. The apartment hadn't been preheated and had no real temperature insulation. Gaps around the windows and doors let the heat disappear almost instantly. The electricity was so weak it couldn't handle the air conditioner and three electric heaters at once. The room was at 0 degrees, and we couldn't even turn the heaters on. I ended up sleeping on the living room sofa in my clothes and under a duvet. It felt like a hotel made of ice in Scandinavia. I paid 80 Euro a night, or 160 Euros for two nights, more than an apartment in Toledo that had three bedrooms, a nice fully equipped kitchen, two restrooms and free underground parking. This old, dark stone house felt depressing and old-fashioned, like a poor farmer's house. The lodge was freezing in winter, and I think it's highly unlikely to be suitable for guests during that season. Juan didn't seem to realize the apartments were uninhabitable in winter. He should stop selling them then, or at least charge a low-season price instead of 80 Euros a night for what was a total nightmare for unsuspecting travelers. If I'd been told it wasn't habitable when I booked, or about more habitable nearby hotels, I might not have stayed. If you find the experience interesting, come to Montefrio in January and try it yourself.

Clean, spacious and a good apartment. The owner at reception was very helpful with everything. Next time, I'll choose one with a view.