Colonial Lodge

If you want to experience everyday life in Suva, Colonial Lodge is the place. Suzie and Josh are genuine locals who are glad to share their knowledge and culture. They’re helpful, accommodating, and honest, and very good at backgammon. The dogs are lovely and make great security guards. It’s a great budget hostel or home stay, close to the bus station and city, and Colonial Lodge has reopened. If you’re used to resort service or want upscale amenities, you’d probably be better off somewhere aimed at upscale tourism.

Suzie and Josh are lovely hosts, make great breakfast, and enjoy a game of backgammon. The place has a homely feel and is a short walk from the bus station and marketplace. Colonial Lodge is getting back up and running. I stayed five nights in June 2023.

The owners and other guests were lovely, and they knew a lot about Suva and Fiji. “Houdini,” a former stray, followed me around town and seemed to protect me from aggressive dogs, beggars, and salespeople, which made the stay memorable. The woman running the homestay is warm and community-minded, though it felt expensive for what it was. I arrived tired and cranky after waiting to check in, missed meeting a friend I’d come to Suva to see, and then waited a few more hours. I was moved to a slightly bigger room with its own entrance, probably a good fit since I was out enjoying Suva’s nightlife and coming back early in the morning on both nights. The toilet leaked and flooded the room, and the shower was held together with duct tape. I felt I’d overpaid by quite a bit, though I know Suva is generally considered expensive for a capital city.

The upstairs area looked nice, and I liked the hammocks inside, but the rest of the stay was frustrating. Things seemed temporary and were always supposedly about to be fixed: a leaking toilet, a broken door, and rooms that flooded in the cellar after one heavy rain. Suzy stayed at her home and sent her son or nephew, I’m not sure which, to deal with repairs. The cat had fleas, and the dogs were noisy and fought right beside us. Suzy complained to me about other guests and told them she was looking forward to me leaving. I was also told to switch rooms and carry a bed to the next house upstairs, which isn’t something you should ask guests to do. Dinner cost $15 and felt very overpriced. Sometimes it was only a small starter, followed by frozen porridge left from the morning for dessert.