Lodge De Charme A Cheda

There were no towel hooks, and hot water took 20 minutes to arrive. The two-level room only had air conditioning upstairs, which left me choosing between being cold while my kids were comfortable or keeping them too hot so I could be comfortable. The internet also didn't work. Not what I expected from a four-star hotel.

The staff were wonderful, and they even sorted out a reservation for us at a popular restaurant in a neighboring town. The room felt more like a private residence, since our house was detached from the others. There was a deep pool you could actually jump into, a good breakfast, and a pillow catalogue too. Simply amazing, would recommend it 100%.

The evening we visited, a duo played easy-listening guitar music, which suited the intimate, peaceful atmosphere near Bonifacio. A Cheda's staff were friendly, attentive, and knew the menu well, taking time to explain dishes and make suggestions based on what we liked. The cooking puts fresh local ingredients into modern versions of classic Corsican dishes. I don't have particular dishes to add, but each bite was a pleasant surprise. It's on the pricey side, though the food, service, and setting made it feel like a worthwhile splurge. A memorable meal that left me wanting more.

The setting alone makes this place special: green gardens, plenty of quiet spots to sit or sunbathe, and gorgeous views on the drive from Porticcio toward Bonifacio. It would be easy to spend a week here. They have covered parking too, so the car doesn't get unbearably hot in the sun. We were upgraded to a suite, with a couch and desk in one room, air conditioning throughout, and a comfortable bed. The bathroom had a jacuzzi-style tub and a shower. Rooms range from single rooms to suites. The property opened 15 years ago and has Michelin recognition for its gastronomy, as well as a jacuzzi, spa, sauna, and pool. Chef Lionel Lebrun, 43, likes to see what he eats. The ingredients often include herbs, vegetables, and fruit from the garden, including the fresh raspberries in the photo. The dishes weren't overly technical or showy. There was grated Persian black lime on roast sea bass, and homemade limoncello granita as an intermezzo between fish and meat. Dinner included two catch-of-the-day fish, two excellent Corsican cheeses, one with truffle and another a creamy goat cheese. They were indirectly smoked with L’Immortelle, a local flower also used in cosmetics, burned beside the cheeses under a silver platter. We also had locally raised veal and desserts from pastry chef Alexandre Prual. His sorbet with garden mint, lemon mint, parsley, verveine, and sariette, called “savory” in English, was among the best I've had. It was delicate, refined, vividly fresh and light, with fresh fruit alongside. Breakfast was one of the best I know, with homemade yogurt, Madeleines, cakes, breads, and juices. The omelette was just right, not runny. They had machine coffee, but offered to make fresh filtered coffee, which was delicious. The room with shower and bath cost €238. The seven-course surprise dinner for two was €270, including three excellent Corsican wines, rosé, dry white, and red. Breakfast was €32 per person, worth every cent. I'll post more dinner details on my website, wine-chronicles.com.