Auberge du Campcardos

The location worked well for skiing in Pymorencs, and the room was reasonably priced compared with other places nearby. It was very basic, though, and the sheets were badly creased and didn’t seem freshly washed. I’d like to think they had been laundered, since the only hotels I’d seen leave sheets for the next guests were in India. Our room was booked and paid for, but when we arrived at 16:45 the door was open and we went in looking for reception. The owner was unfriendly and told us to leave because they wouldn’t open for another fifteen minutes. He didn’t even suggest we wait at the bar. It was cold and windy, so we sat in the car until they opened. We’d planned to have dinner there, but after that awkward welcome we went to Llivia instead, where there are amazing restaurants.

After a long day hiking, the sunny terrace was a lovely bonus. The room was small and tidy, the bed comfortable, and the shower hot. Dinner was another plus: an amazing three-course menu for 20 euro, with excellent cooking.

I was passing through and asked at the bar to fill my bottle with tap water. I’d gladly have paid a euro as a courtesy, since they have bills to pay, but they charged me €2 and didn’t even fill it to the top. Most places wouldn’t take money at all. It felt like the staff were making a mug out of me. Hopefully they don’t charge other people coming in with heat stroke.

The food was good, which made the rest a bit of a shame. The first course was a good buffet, followed by very good pig cheeks, then an assortment of dessert brought out at the end. Drinks weren’t included. Service was adequate, but not especially friendly. We stopped because this small rural restaurant looked nice, with easy parking in a pleasant French countryside setting between Andorra and Spain. We arrived at 13:45, and the waiter immediately checked his watch when I walked in, even though only one table was occupied. The €13 lunch menu offered just one main, pig cheeks. If you don’t like those, the à la carte dishes mostly cost 16 to 20 euros, quite expensive for a humble restaurant and a shock for Spanish visitors. With so few customers, they could be more flexible about opening times, friendlier, and offer more choice on the set menu.