Maison Marthe B & B

I'm very disappointed with the owners. I booked through Booking.com but couldn't come, and I cancelled within the permitted time. Since November, I still haven't received a refund, despite calling and emailing and despite Booking.com's intervention.

The house clearly has a history, and its unusual decor reflects the hosts' personalities. The bed in the Mitsou room was comfortable, and following the recommendation for a nearby restaurant was definitely worthwhile. Colette's house and museum are just a few steps away, making this a lovely overnight stop between Saint-Fargeau and Guédelon Castle. Guy welcomed us warmly and shared snippets of his very rich life. I could have listened all evening, though I didn't want to impose for too long. Elisabeth made us delicious breakfasts, and we chatted together.

The couple renting out the rooms are very friendly. The whole house has that typical French charm, and breakfast comes with croissants and baguettes with jam.

If you like order and discipline, are a bit of a neat freak, and want refined surroundings with no noticeable smells, this probably isn't for you. Maison Marthe is more like a trip back in time, with 18th-century interiors. Saint Sauveur en Puisaye is a rural commune, but it doesn't feel like the countryside: it has a little over four times the population of our village and is much more touristy. You enter through a bucolic garden, beneath arches and foliage. It's an organized, English-garden kind of disorder, with decorative objects standing in for plants and flowers and reflecting the hosts. Inside, you're met in the hallway with a big smile and a friendly greeting, then given a quick look at the breakfast room before being shown to your room. Mind the stairs, especially with a backpack. We booked the "Roulotte" room. It was clean, with no spiders or insects, and lit by artificial light among astonishing antiques collected from countless flea markets. It's an attic room, so watch your head if you're 1.70m or taller. The ceiling hangs just a few centimeters above the door. If the house "manual" isn't enough to read, there's also a publication about the house and your hosts. Or, if you're a good listener, you can hear their fabulous stories without even needing to ask twice. Breakfast is typically French, with a small bread roll, tea or coffee, and freshly squeezed orange juice.