Le Relais des 5 Chateaux

At €81 a night for B&B, it felt overpriced, though the stay was adequate. The breakfast was okay but not very adventurous, and the coffee was good. The room had too little storage, with only one small drawer and not enough hangers, and no bedside tables. The shower door wouldn’t shut, empty sachets from the previous guest were left behind, and the shower head was so clogged with limescale that I had to clean it. Soap and shampoo hadn’t been replenished, so I had to ask for more. The WC wobbled when I sat down, and limescale on the sink tap soaked me, so I had to scrape it off.

We stayed for a week on a work trip from the UK, and both my colleague and I felt unwelcome. The rooms were VERY basic. I was fine with mine, but my colleague had to move because the shower didn’t work. We were never invited to book dinner at the restaurant, which seemed strange. I wouldn’t choose to stay here again. Other reviews suggest French guests are generally happier while visitors from abroad give lower ratings, and I can see why. The hotelier made little effort to talk with us. Our French was better than her English, but when we tried to speak, it felt like she smirked at our mistakes.

The countryside setting is beautiful, with a lovely terrace view and a clean pool. Breakfast was outstanding, with everything baked in-house. There were ten homemade jams, plus yoghurt and delicious rice pudding. Other guests told me the restaurant was excellent too. The rooms were comfortable, but looked quite tired, and the decor still felt stuck in the 1970s. The place would need considerable investment for air conditioning and a more suitable room style. Still, it was a memorable stay.

It’s fascinating to walk back into ancient history here. The site has been presented really well, and taking time to read the guide as you go helps you picture what life must have been like. It’s incredible that the farm was lived in until relatively recently.