The Jolly Sailor

The setting is lovely, with a big beer garden overlooking the marsh, and it’s clearly popular because of the location. That’s about where the positives end. Drinks cost far too much and were tepid when brought outside. The food is more reasonably priced, though still not great. Ten pounds for four pieces of fried cauliflower drenched in soy sauce and presented as “Korean” is ridiculous. The staff don’t seem used to serving quickly or efficiently, and don’t appear to care enough to improve. Calling them “incompetent,” as another reviewer did, may be too harsh. We saw staff repeatedly pass tables covered in empty glasses, while others seemed too nervous to leave the shade of the empty pub. Our own table was filthy, with sliced lemons covering one end. At busy times the queue for food and drinks gets so long it spoils the atmosphere. And oddly, when the outdoor bar is open, the indoor one is closed, which makes things even more frustrating.

It was our second visit, and it certainly won’t be the last. We booked for bank holiday Monday, during the hottest weekend on record, after the pub had been packed all day. By the time we arrived, it was quiet, and we were welcomed like old friends. The pub food was beautifully prepared. The publican was warm and jovial with the few people who came in for a pint, making everyone feel as if they’d popped into his own sitting room.

We tried the small plates at lunch, including local smoked duck and prawns, plus the vegetarian sticky chilli baked cauliflower florets. The cauliflower was the unexpected favourite. This is a great old-world village pub in lower Orford, with a small bar, restaurant rooms and a decent choice of local beers. I’d definitely recommend it.

Since the new owners took over last year, the place has changed quite a bit, including the outdoor bar and the new staff. The food was the standout on today’s visit. The chicken and tarragon pie was cooked beautifully, and my son reckoned the stacked burger was the best meal he’d ever had.