Ushguli Hotel Riho

We were left with only 20 Lari near the end of our trip, and I had told her clearly that we needed it for breakfast. She brought us two coffees. I had 80% of the price, with the rest set aside for breakfast, and asked if that was okay. She grabbed the last of my money from my hand, leaving us without enough for breakfast. It felt very inhumane. Georgians can be kind when they need something from you, but once they don’t, their real face can show.

We had a nice rest here. It’s more of a guesthouse than a hotel, with very kind people, clean rooms, and food that was better than average and different from the usual dishes we’d tried. Finding the place was difficult, though. The picture shows part of the alley where the guesthouse is.

The guesthouse is clean and the beds are comfortable, with spectacular views of Mount Shkhara. We stayed four nights and really enjoyed the delicious dinners. The family was kind and helpful, and welcomed us with coffee or tea. The older lady made a real effort to speak a little English and German, while her daughter-in-law spoke basic English well.

The hosts are fantastic, and breakfast at 20 GL brought a new surprise to the table each day. Horses are available for tours, and the natural scenery at 2,200 m is breathtaking. Take time to slow down and let the pace of the world settle around you. Bring cash too, since there are no ATMs in Ushguli and you can’t pay by card anywhere. The accommodation sits at the upper end of Usghuli, close to Lamaria Church, and makes a good base for trips to the Shkhara Glacier. On the way, you pass the art museum of painter Fridon Nizharadze, worth a visit for its mix of old Svaneti symbolism and surrealist motifs. The Ethnographic Museum is only a minute away.