Themelina Studios

We came to Kalymnos at short notice and stayed at Thelmelinas apartments from 10th to 17th June 2014. We’d planned to base ourselves in Myrthes to meet my wife’s sister and her husband from Australia, plus another friend, but we were really glad we chose Emporios. It’s a sleepy, quiet part of Kalymnos, good for relaxing and walking, but not for nightlife. I’d seen Harrys Paradise gardens, but wouldn’t recommend staying there if, like us, you want a sea view. We have a splendid garden in England but hardly ever see the sea. The food there is very good, though. Other apartments are available, but generally aren’t listed online. Our apartment cost 38 Euros a night. It had a good-sized bedroom and kitchen area, a clean bathroom, and hot water in the shower. The spacious balcony looked out over the bay toward Tolendos and the headland. From above, the water looked like a peaceful Swiss lake most of the time, though the strong wind on thurs 12th June made it choppy. Thelmelina, the owner, cleaned daily and was very friendly. We arranged the trip with her son Panormitis, who spoke excellent English. The beach has two sides: Tavernas along one stretch, and pebbles and shady trees along the other. There are beaches a short walk away, and heading north along the coast we saw nobody but goats. The sun casts a warm pink light on the hills at sunset. We enjoyed it from Kastris taverna on our way to the headland, then went out to the headland with a couple of beers to watch the sunset. Emporios has 5 tavernas and one small supermarket. There are no ATMs, and the supermarket and some tavernas don’t take credit or debit cards, so bring enough cash. A truck brought fresh fruit and vegetables several times a day, and they were exceptional value. A few touring yachts stayed overnight while we were there; they and the occasional tourists arriving mostly on hired scooters seemed to provide most of the tavernas’ business. Tourist boats come from Myrthes bay in summer, though we didn’t see any during our stay. The footpath to the Sytarki caves is marked on the map but very hard to find. The ridge walk from Stavros church is well worth it, with spectacular views across the island and toward Leros and Pserimos. Kastris had our favorite food, and Maria made us feel very welcome. The Greek salads came with olives, which has become rare these days, though it was standard years ago. We like visiting Greece in June or September, preferably both, since those months are better for walking. Otherwise, you can just sit back with the sun, the view, and the sound of the waves, which is a real hardship. I hesitated to write this because it’s usually better to keep the best secrets to yourself, but I can’t imagine such a wonderful place staying secret for long. Thank you, Thelmelina, for making our holiday so memorable.

The room was well equipped and in a good spot, though the shower was quite small. Themelina herself is lovely, a real joy.

A peaceful, quiet spot very close to Emporios beach. The room was really nice and comfortable.

Our booking was cancelled just 3 days before we were due to arrive, because he’d received a tourism agency offer he couldn’t refuse. We only found out through a missed call on my mobile. We called back to ask what was going on, but they hadn’t left a message because calling my French number was too expensive. He said he’d help us find somewhere else, but we never heard from him again. He also told us that "harry's paradise" nearby was full. We called them ourselves and, surprise, found a room. It’s unbelievable to be treated this way. They treat tourists like products and show people no respect. A very bad image for Kalymnos and Emporio.