Besakih Beach Hotel

I was happy with what I got for the price, though the room could use paint and a new bathroom fit-out. The bed was hard enough to make me think twice about returning. The main draw is the excellent location, and the pool looks out over the beach and public path.

There’s plenty to see around here: the beach path is good for a walk, and the other end of the area has shops, warungs, a local mini-mart and a bottleO next door. Some vendors will pull you in, especially along the side street of great goods, though it’s worth browsing if you want well-priced products. You’ll also get approached by locals offering to 'look after your things'. They have to make a buck somehow. No Centrelink here, unlike the shirt! (see photos). There are tempting beach bars too, including one with an infinity pool you can swim up to. Across the main street is Icon Bali, a huge reed-covered, multi-level shopping centre. Its flashy presentation and slick shops are hard to miss, but the twee boat-like street-food stalls reminded me of Willy Wonka And The Chocolate Factory without the fun. All the glass, lighting and millimetre-perfect placement feel sterile beside the economic reality outside, so you can sense the hard sell coming. Yeh nah.

The gardens are beautiful, the pools are well looked after, and the rooms get cleaned daily with fresh linen and comfortable beds. The staff really want you to have a good stay and are happy to help with anything. Most guests are older, though there are a few young families. I’ve met people who have been returning for 10, 15 or 20 years, and some stay for months. Everyone agrees the place is dated, but the price reflects that. If you’re after parties or you’re a five-star snob, this isn’t the place for you.

The garden and pool are a plus, though the resort feels a little run down. There was a kettle, hair dryer and enough hangers in the room. But the room smelled a bit, and I could only hope the mattress was clean. The pillows smelled too and need a proper wash at 60°. The bathroom needs a deep clean: stained shower curtain, limescale in the shower and black mold. There’s no power outlet by the bed, and the showerhead needs replacing as soon as possible.