BB Al Nabuisson

We asked for a non-sweet breakfast because that's what we prefer, and got cheese and eggs alongside the croissants. This cosy B&B is in Aosta's old town, with big rooms and wood floors, and a very friendly host. The bathroom heating was a little unpredictable, so it could feel quite chilly after a hot shower.

Al Nabuisson felt cosy and welcoming during my week there, even if it wasn't chic or extravagant. I found its website while looking for somewhere in central Aosta, got the details by email in Italian, and then booked. They didn’t ask for a deposit, and soon after my stay was confirmed they sent useful directions for getting there from the station. The route took me along Via Conseil des Commis to Piazza Chanoux, then left onto Via de Tillier, a narrow street lined with little shops and courtyards. Via Aubert begins at a sharp corner, and that’s where Al Nabuisson is. The directions didn't mention that the B&B sits inside one of the courtyards, though. I walked past it and had to double back to find number 50. As I was peering into the hidden courtyard, Signora Gabriella spotted me and welcomed me as if she'd known me for years. She was charming and businesslike, and showed me into a beautiful inner space, lush and green like a well-kept garden. The rooms follow this stretch of garden, among flowering bushes and climbing plants. My ground-floor double was huge, filled with an antique metal bed, old furniture, aged photos, and rural mementos that suited the place. The bathroom had a lava floor and wasn't luxurious, but it fit the rustic feel. Breakfast was served each morning in a small, low-ceilinged room tucked by a side gate. There was plenty to choose from: five cereals, three kinds of cake, fresh baguettes, and local cheeses and cold cuts. There were also a dozen or more herbal teas and a ready-to-go percolator with wonderfully fragrant coffee. It was the kind of spread that made me want to find the signora and thank her for her steady hospitality.

A lovely place where you can feel inspired, with all the comforts and an amazing amount of quiet despite being right among the main streets of the center.

We had a great weekend in the Aosta Valley, skiing at Pila and Courmayeur. Our ski pass meant we weren't charged for the return trip through the St. Bernard Tunnel. Gabriela was incredibly friendly, and the apartment was better than we expected, with a big bed and a kitchen. We could bring Sua, our dog, and the room was cleaned every day. Breakfast was varied and very complete, and the price was excellent. The spot on Aosta's main street, close to shops and restaurants, was perfect. Blue zone parking was the only downside, though we had no trouble with it. We highly recommend the place and will definitely come back.