Villa Il Corniolo

The pool and garden were a big hit with the kids. The pool is large, looks out over the hills, and was a welcome break from the heat. There are shaded spots in the simple, nicely kept garden, a pavilion for meals, and a well-equipped barbecue area. The swing felt a little unstable, so someone may need to hold its legs while children use it. We had a fantastic week at Il Corniolo, and it exceeded what we expected. Our group was 22 people, four families with 10 adults and 12 children of different ages. The hosts were flexible about numbers, added beds without charging extra, and waited for us when we arrived late in the evening. We wanted somewhere far from everything, and Volterrano certainly fit. It’s between Tuscany and Umbria, around 40 minutes from Cittá di Castello and a 30-minute drive the other way to Castiglion Fiorentino along a winding mountain road. Nearby there are just two small shops and a café. A supermarket in Trestina may mean a drive of up to 18 km. The house is countryside-rustic, on a hillside, with thick walls and wooden shutters that help keep it cool in hot weather. It’s easier to reach by car than some Umbrian farmhouses, with only the last hundred metres on gravel and plenty of parking. The floors and bathroom tiles are tasteful. Much of the furniture is heavy old Tuscan style, attractive and solid but not easy to move. The kitchens had enough basic equipment for us. Some cupboard doors were loose, and a few garden loungers were worn, though neither bothered us much during our lovely week. Wi-Fi was available in the ground-floor dining room of the upper house, but the signal was weak. We didn’t mind, since we were hoping to get away from civilization while still being within reach of the sights of Umbria and Tuscany. We can’t say anything about the TV or other audiovisual equipment. Cleanliness was acceptable for us, and we saw no rats or mice. There were a few small bugs, mostly in the garden, which caused little trouble. The host carefully cleaned the pool and garden each morning, and advised us not to drink the tap water because of its unpleasant taste, apparently an issue in parts of Italy. The hosts were courteous and did their best to communicate. They spoke Italian and a little basic English, while our Italian was even more limited, so the Umbrian dialect was beyond us, but they were keen to make things work. For shopping, expect to travel; for services, don’t expect a hotel. If you’re after rural charm at a modest price, with friends or children and the attractions of Toscana and Umbria within reach, this could suit you. It’s quiet, reasonably accessible, and has a great pool.