La Casetta (CIR 013075-CNI-00717)

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A real Italian place to stay, away from the tourist crowds. It’s a small apartment over two levels in a densely populated residential complex that almost feels like a castle, in a little mountain village well outside Como. The landlady is friendly and meets guests at a meeting point, which seems sensible: the way in runs through narrow village streets, and I’d have wondered if I was going the right way on my own. The kitchen-diner has a quaint feel, while the bedroom is modern and tastefully furnished. The kitchen is well equipped, and some groceries and cosmetics are provided. The landlady also booked us a table at a nearby restaurant for our first dinner. It’s a great base for mountain hikes, and probably cooler in summer than Como below. The bathroom has no window and smells damp, though not moldy, and the outdoor seating area is tiny. We also got the sense that some neighbors weren’t thrilled about having a vacation rental next door.

The house itself is beautiful and clean, and the owners are friendly. Breakfast is included. Getting there is another matter: it’s out of the way and tough to find, especially with no cell service. The streets are incredibly narrow, with barely enough room for cars to pass in both directions.

A lovely, peaceful place not far from Como. The owners are genuinely kind and welcoming.