La Torre

The place is quiet, and the staff were helpful, which makes the rest a shame. The room I had seemed clean, but dust gave me real trouble overnight, and the mattress was old enough to need replacing. From the photos, the renovated rooms may be worth the rate. If you get sent to the house next door, though, you’re paying nearly €80 with no discount for booking, for dated furniture and fixtures and a shared bathroom whose window faces the bedroom. No breakfast, and no discount at local bars either. That feels unfair.

The only thing we were told on the phone was that the apartment had no Wi-Fi. We called that afternoon because the B&B was full, and they offered us a room there. What we found was a three-storey old house with a heavy musty smell, ancient furniture, and conditions that didn’t feel hygienic or healthy. The sheets seemed as old as the house. There was no TV or air conditioning, and it was on a noisy little square. The price felt like a rip-off. It’s a terrible way to receive tourists and reflects badly on Ligurian hospitality. We were glad to leave and wait for sunrise on the beach at 6:00. I can only give one star, so that’s what I’m giving.

Getting to the beach at Ventimiglia or Bordighera takes up to 20 minutes by car. Parking at the accommodation is limited: you can unload, then leave the car in a nearby lot. There’s a motorcycle space by the church square. Isolabona is small enough to walk through in just over an hour, and the closest restaurants are in nearby Dolceaqua. The room and bathroom were clean on the first day, but it wasn’t made up again afterward, and even towels left on the floor stayed put. Breakfast was available the next day, but wasn’t provided for guests on the days after that. I’d wanted to book breakfast there, though the pandemic and limited seating were given as constraints. Serving it in a few rounds should have been possible. There’s no Wi-Fi, which doesn’t bother me personally, but the weak signal is noticeable in how quickly the battery drains. Be prepared for a steep, narrow staircase to the rooms. They face the church square, where people gather at the nearby bars in the evenings and children play late. The church is close and rings at 7 a.m., though it seems quiet at night.

The setting is lovely, with the mountains all around, and it makes a handy base for places like Sanremo and Nice. We enjoyed the chance to take in both the mountains and the sky in one place. The antique-style furnishings were reasonably clean, though arranged along the stairs. We were welcomed warmly, and we’re grateful to Mr. Enzo for that.