Vetera Matera

We stayed three nights. The room was spacious and well equipped, and dinner at the restaurant was wonderful, even though there weren’t many other guests. The staff were charming, but some struggled with English. Reception handovers could have been better, since requests made to one person weren’t passed along to the next shift. Parking and the garage pickup were smooth and welcoming, even in heavy rain. The spa is small and had a few technical problems. I suspect some of our issues are first-year startup troubles and will be sorted out soon.

The restoration took an impressive eight years, and the hotel honors its history in all the details. Breakfast was world-class, with a remarkable spread of fresh, high-quality food that could match the best five-star hotels. The service was flawless and attentive from the moment we arrived, making us feel special. Our private terrace had an unforgettable view of the Sassi, magical by day and night. This boutique hotel in Matera exceeded every expectation and felt well beyond five-star standards.

We booked late, and it was still high season, so we settled. Breakfast was okay, and I think doing a bit of research first would be best. Matera has lots of steps and uneven paths, which can be hard on your knees. I was told other guests had complained about that too. The location didn’t work that well for us. The front desk said many places were within walking distance, but we found getting around at night difficult. A taxi costs about 30 euros on average, yes, really.

Vetera Matera was the most disappointing hotel stay I’ve had, and easily the worst during my 2½ months traveling around Italy. For roughly 90 days I stayed almost entirely in five-star hotels, from the Dolomites down through southern Puglia. This was the only place that left me feeling misled, frustrated, and unwelcome. The rooms felt like little prison cells. In a historic town like Matera I could have accepted that as part of the character, but the bigger issue was the staff’s indifference. The service was so apathetic it made me want to jump out a window. The bright spot was Felipe and Mikhail, the drivers. They were warm, personable, and genuinely hospitable. They told me about their childhoods, families, and growing up here, and talking with them gave me a sense of the region’s real soul. If the rest of the staff had even half their authenticity and humanity, this hotel might deserve its stars. The front desk was the worst part: cold, robotic, dismissive, and shockingly incompetent. They seemed not to understand what someone paying €1000 a night should expect. There was no hello coming or going, no hospitality, and no basic understanding of how the property worked. The advertised Michelin-starred restaurant felt nowhere near fine dining. When I called to book, I was kept on hold for 12 minutes before being told, “It’s not open on Wednesdays.” I said I’d find somewhere in town, and the woman at the desk just said, “Bye.” No apology, suggestion, or offer to help. The dining room looked and felt like a bad Holiday Inn banquet hall in Idaho, with cheap furniture, a lifeless atmosphere, and staff who treated me like a nuisance. At breakfast, I asked for help and was told, “Yes, it’s on the buffet, get it yourself.” Michelin would be horrified. I sat outside near the restaurant for two hours without anyone offering even a glass of water. Turndown service was also hit or miss, done one night and skipped the next, with no consistency. The spa was ridiculous. There was nobody there when I arrived. When someone eventually came, she didn’t offer a robe, towel, or any welcome. Towels were tucked away, and after I found one there was nowhere to hang it. The hot plunge was cold, and the cold plunge was hot. I left my robe and towel on the floor because there was no rack, and both were gone when I returned. They offered tea and water, but there were no cups. This didn’t feel like a spa at all. The Wi-Fi kept dropping and was unusable. Within ten minutes of check-in, I overheard several guests complaining about different things. They’d been there only half an hour and were already fed up. That told me what I needed to know. I booked because of the Relais & Châteaux name, which I associate with consistent, exceptional quality. There was another high-end place in town I could have chosen, but I trusted that reputation and paid the price. The hotel says it took seven years to build. Seven years for a place with the soul of a concrete bunker, the look of a bargain chain motel, and the hospitality of a DMV waiting room, all at €1000 a night. For a feel for Matera’s warmth and culture, talk to Felipe and Mikhail. For real hospitality, I’d look elsewhere.