Podere I Massoni

The food was outstanding. I really didn’t want to leave.

The road in is paved and manageable in an ordinary car, though there are a few potholes you can avoid. Getting across the bridge, or through the riverbed as an alternative, is quite an adventure and feels a bit unsettling despite being assured it’s stable. Staff were incredibly friendly and handled problems. The location among Tuscany’s rolling hills is fantastic, the recently modernized pool area is lovely, and the food at San Ottaviano restaurant is very good, though the value for money could be better. Pizza night is well worth it, as is the guided craft brewery tour with tasting. The brewery’s own beer is delicious. Our first night nearly ended with us leaving. I research places carefully, and on arrival I was shocked by how little the website room photos matched reality. The first one-room apartment was dark, dirty, had cloudy windows and a terrible view, and smelled of sewage. We were told where the smell came from, but it wasn’t explained, and it wasn’t something a guest should have to deal with. This was at about €170 a night. We reported a problem and were moved to a larger first-floor apartment that was at least clean and brighter, but the price still didn’t fit the condition. The apartments are nothing like the online photos suggest. They’re very worn and run-down, with milky windows, holes in the curtains, and drain smells in the ground-floor units. The whole complex looks old and poorly maintained, even dilapidated from the outside. The apartments are very basic and short on glasses, pans, pots, and plates. The terrace is shabby, with dirty tiles and a torn or broken sunshade. The washing machine costs €6, which feels outrageous, and I wouldn’t want to do laundry there. The riding paddock used for lessons has also seen better days. I wouldn’t use the complex’s barbecues for my food, and apartments should be checked before guests arrive. We had a relaxing week, but won’t be back anytime soon. New windows, garden lights, curtains, and proper upkeep could make it a wonderful, peaceful place, but as it stands, I can’t really recommend it. It’s more style than substance, and a shame because the place has potential.

The curtains don’t block out the light, so bring a sleep mask if you need the room completely dark. There’s no TV or air-conditioning either, but that was manageable for me. The apartment was spacious and had what I needed for a comfortable stay. It’s wonderfully quiet, far from the noise, and the outdoor spaces are great for dining outside and enjoying cool evenings. You may get to know the neighbors if you feel like it. In August there are lots of foreigners, and speaking English makes things easier. Not everyone is sociable, though there are some nice exceptions. A special hello to little Amos and his mother, Anissa, who’s very kind and attentive to her guests.

If you’re not tall, get ready for some lovely evening stargazing, you can see shooting stars very well from here. We found this place online and it looked really nice, but the location was the only thing we liked: it’s tucked into the countryside and far from everything, with the nearest supermarket about a 30-minute drive away. Service is practically nonexistent apart from the pool. The apartment was almost empty and minimally furnished, with nowhere to dry glasses and cutlery, no linens, and no household detergent. At arrival we were advised not to drink the tap water and were offered their own microfiltered water for €1.50 per 0.75-liter bottle. But the tap water is drinkable and safe. The agriturismo serves dinners at restaurant prices, such as €28 for pork barbecue with a crostini appetizer, drinks extra, and the food wasn’t even that good.