S'Enis Monte Maccione

The people looking after this place are so kind, and the mountain views are breathtaking. The accommodations are comfortable, neat, and fabulous. I'd recommend staying at least two nights to really enjoy the beauty, peace, and harmony here. I can't wait to come back.

The location is wonderful, but the quality doesn't live up to it. The rooms feel very dated, and sound carries through the poor insulation. We tried the included dinner, and it was one of the worst meals I've had in Italy: dry, overcooked, with no finesse or care. It tasted amateurish, and I felt sick afterward. It's a shame for such a nice place. They should renovate everything and hire a real chef.

The setting is a dream for hikers. Trails start right outside, and the terrace is lovely for relaxing and watching the sunset after a hike. The scenery shifts from lush alpine landscape to rocky, almost moonlike terrain higher up. I sprained my ankle hiking down Mount Corassi, but I'd still recommend the route. It's also ideal for trail runners. Our first night was stressful: around ten kids ran and screamed nonstop until after 11, then started again at 6:30 in the morning. The room and door had no sound insulation, so it felt like they were right there with us. On the second day, with very few rooms booked, things improved a lot. Think carefully about your arrival day, and maybe avoid Friday or Saturday nights and school holidays. Breakfast was inconsistent, with some things overly salty and dry, as if they'd sat out for hours. We had dinner once. The pizza was alright, but the ravioli was very basic. Pasta dishes would be better with some vegetables. I wouldn't recommend the restaurant.

There are trails right from the hotel, and it worked well as a base for hiking. The winding road wasn't a problem for day trips and sightseeing, with plenty to do within an hour's drive. A heads-up about getting there: don't follow GPS through Oliena's tiny alleys. Take the main road around town, as they advise. I booked half board, which was convenient, but didn't realize it came with a separate, smaller menu, so I missed some dinner items I'd wanted to try. What I did order was delicious. The rooms are clean and simple. If you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs. Sound echoes, and the doors and walls are thin. My room was next to the staircase on one side and the neighbors' toilet on the other. One night I could hear what sounded like pipes clanking.