Agriturismo Podere la Serpolla

The road is worth knowing about before you go: the last 5 km are on a dirt track through the woods. It's beautiful, but not passable in a low-slung car. Also, the sauna listed among the amenities isn't at the property. You'd have to go to another place 2 kilometers away to use it. I stayed with friends in the "Tordo" holiday home. It's charming and spacious, but the cleaning wasn't up to scratch. There was cooking residue even on the stovetop, and outside, beneath the mulberry tree in front of our door, old prunings and discarded plastic pots had been left on the ground. It's a shame, because the property itself is so beautiful.

A peaceful spot with a perfect pool, and the staff were friendly and helpful. We enjoyed having bonfires in the evenings, for cooking and other things, and there were no mosquitoes, which was a nice bonus. Just be aware that the road isn't great for low-slung cars, though it fits the scenery.

La Serpolla brought to mind H.D. Thoreau's "Walden: Life in the Woods," with its simple life away from the city, surrounded by nature and a crystal-clear lake. It feels like leaving civilization behind, as Giulio puts it, and stepping into the wild. You come back to life there. Getting there takes care. From the nearest Vocabolo, the road starts as a regular hill road, then turns into a woodland track. The final 5 km are rocky and uneven, with some unstable stretches and potholes, especially in the last 2 km. Go slowly and watch the ground closely, both uphill and downhill. After the first trip, though, you realize a jeep isn't necessary. A small car can make it, but a sports car sits too low for this terrain. At the top, you pass through La Serpolla's open wooden gate into a quiet, spacious place. Two renovated farmhouses sit among lush Mediterranean plants and trees. There's always a breeze, sometimes gentle and sometimes strong. In summer, it brings welcome coolness at this unspoiled altitude. About ten steps from the houses is a large pool with clear, slightly salty water, so there's no chlorine smell or unpleasant effect on your skin. Trees, shrubs, and flowers surround it, making it feel like a pool in a woodland clearing. The Noce apartment is bright and spacious, with light, dusty terracotta floors, a fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, a mezzanine with a couple of mattresses, two bedrooms, and a bathroom overlooking the valley. Its minimal furnishings, with country touches, suit the stone and the simple feel of a 16th-century convent. There's also a fully equipped solarium and a beautiful carved stone table for eating, drawing, or reading, with lighting available at night. The sky is always changing, with clear blue, big storm-like clouds, and curling cirrus clouds visible while you float on your back. Perugia is only a few kilometers away, and nearby hamlets and villages have wonderful food at excellent value. La Serpolla is a place to lose track of time, sleep in deep quiet, and enjoy the simplicity that enchanted Thoreau.

A lovely spot surrounded by nature, just right if you want to get away from city noise. Getting to the farm takes some effort, but it's manageable with a crossover.