Lelive Bed and Breakfast

Breakfast was excellent, and we'd go out of our way to stay here and see this gem of a town. B&B Lelive is a stylish, exquisite retreat in a beautiful hilltop village, lovingly restored and thoughtfully designed. It's run by one of the kindest families we've met in all our travels. When we had a medical emergency, Ezio and his mother went to great lengths to help us, when they could simply have told us to call a taxi.

I stayed here with my teenage kids and was amazed by how generous Enzio and his staff were. The spa is fabulous, and breakfast was fresh and wonderful. Some of his family were visiting too and invited us to eat with them. We loved it. It felt like home away from home, and I wish we could have stayed longer.

Sermoneta is still off the radar, with no crowds and an authentic feel. Lelive is its heart in every way, and staying here is something very special. You come for the castle, town and churches, the extraordinary nearby Ninfa Gardens, and Lelive itself. We'd traveled from Baltimore to Rome, then driven from Rome to Sermoneta, 24 hours in all. Few cars can enter town, and the small parking area at the entrance holds about ten. Dino met us there and drove us and our luggage about 300 yards into town and up a steep cobbled lane barely wider than his car. We were at Lelive. They'd kindly made our room available at 10 am, so we got a two-hour nap. We had tickets for the “English Tour” at Ninfa Gardens at 3 pm that afternoon. When we were about to drive there, Dino offered to take us in his Fiat 500 with the top rolled back. We protested, but he insisted. He narrated the area's history on the way, and we got to know each other better. We thanked him several times, and each time he said “it is nothing.” Back at Lelive, Dino and Nicoletta brought out local red wine, fresh mozzarella, and Parmesan. We sat together in the little outdoor courtyard in the late afternoon. Dino speaks English, while Nicoletta speaks much less, so he translated as we chatted and got to know our hosts. Lelive had been open about two years, following two years of full historic restoration. The finished B&B is remarkable, with attention to detail that keeps revealing itself. Downstairs, the sauna and whirlpool are carved from stone, along with a massage room. The open central stairs lead to the main floor, with a common room and fireplace, dining room, outdoor courtyard, kitchen, and one guest room. Two more guest rooms are upstairs, and ours had a wonderful mountain view. That first evening, Dino booked us dinner at Locanda Bonifacio VIII, just a two-minute walk away. Thanks to his reservation, we were looked after like family. After wine, pasta, and truffles, we slept for 13 hours and woke at 10 am, hoping we hadn't missed breakfast. We hadn't. Fresh fruit, bread, juices, yogurt, jams, and cappuccinos. Amazing. After exploring Sermoneta, we had lunch with Nicoletta, her son, and his girlfriend, who were visiting from Rome. He studies law there and she studies medicine. We ate at Lelive's table, had the best risotto I've ever tasted, and learned what student life in Rome is like. It's very good! I could go on. Thank you, Dino and Nicoletta. Here's a picture of my wife at Lelive.

The hosts are generous, the rooms are great, and the place works wonderfully for short or long stays. Loved it.