Asteria Apartments Ortigia

The owner's playful little mermaid theme runs from the WiFi password to a few pictures, and it was a real treat. She was also very kind, messaging us about the keys and anything else we needed, and even offering to cover salt and detergent when we didn't need them. There's plenty of room, with two double beds and a single bed, plus a hidden trunk-sized massage table for the more adventurous, though only for lighter people. The layout has two bedrooms and a bathroom: one bedroom has a double bed and wardrobe, while the other is more of a central room with beds and living space. The kitchen shares that central room and is fortunately well away from the beds. It was a bit dirty and sparsely equipped, which was the main drawback, but still acceptable. The place is far enough from the crowds for a quiet stay, yet everything in Ortigia is walkable. In winter, bundle up for the strong gusts of wind, which are normal this close to the sea.

The apartment itself is great, with a brand-new smell and very friendly staff. The location can put you off a little, but I'd still recommend it.

It was damp and dirty, and staying there felt like being in a garage. A negative experience.