Agriturismo Cerquaglia

For €65 for two, breakfast, coffee, and biscuits were included. Parking is free, and payment is in cash. It’s a small B&B style agriturismo in the green Umbrian countryside, among olive groves, fig trees, sunflowers, and peach orchards. Coming from Todi, follow the sign on the left after a steep descent of almost 700 meters. Lunch and dinner aren’t included. We stayed downstairs in a double room with its own bathroom. The room was adequate, with retro furnishings in a traditional agriturismo style. The owner is a lively, kind, and welcoming elderly man, though he often seems lonely; he enjoys telling stories about his life. With a little more help for him, this could be a truly wonderful place.

I liked staying here. It’s quiet, has parking, and the view is relaxing. This is a working farmhouse, and the owners are involved in farming, so there are rustic tools around. It’s not a picture-postcard B&B, which is exactly why I chose it for its authenticity. My room was small, with a little window, but stayed cool and had a comfortable horsehair or similar mattress. The small bathroom was new and welcoming. The owner was friendly and helpful.

The affordable price and being close to Todi were about the only positives. The place smelled like a sewer, and there was dust and cobwebs everywhere. The shower was above the toilet. There was no outside light at night, a real issue given how remote it is. Breakfast wasn’t provided, although Booking mentioned it, and what they listed amounted to coffee at most. The room lock didn’t work from inside, so I had to put the refrigerator in front of the door at night to feel secure.

We felt at ease during our night at Mr. Elio’s farmhouse. He was our contact by phone and in person, always affable and courteous. He’s very sociable and loves a chat and telling stories about his life. At a young age he was a musician, and at breakfast he played a few bits on the accordion. He said years of work meant his fingers no longer followed him, but we thought he was really talented. He’s 85 now, though he looks 65! The room had a private bathroom and very basic, old-fashioned furnishings, but it was functional. The bed was firm, the sheets fresh, and the bedspread a little vintage. It’s a good stop for anyone passing through who wants to visit Todi. Breakfast was very basic Italian fare, so if you’re after an international breakfast, head to Todi’s main square. Thank you for your kindness, Mr. Elio. It was a pleasant discovery.