Yukkura Inn

After a long journey, the gardens and rustic feel at Mukaitaki were instantly calming. The 160-year-old ryokan is beautiful, and I’d love to see it in another season. Even our one-night visit was a highlight of my three-week Japan trip. Staff carried our bags despite our early arrival, and everyone made a real effort to communicate across the language barrier. Shuji-san welcomed us in our room and looked after us so well, with plenty of humor, kindness, and useful information. The service was superb throughout our stay. If you’re visiting quiet Aizu-Wakamatsu, staying in Higashiyama Onsen is a must. Mukaitaki was worth every bit of the price.

I left my jewelry wrapped in a tissue on a side table by the onsen, and when I realized a few hours later, I panicked and emailed the staff. They had already thrown it out, but searched through the trash, found it, and sent it to my next hotel. It arrived the next day, and they even called ahead to make sure the hotel expected it. I’m so grateful for how kind and helpful everyone was. The visit was such a lovely way to spend my birthday. They met us outside, showed us around, and the peaceful garden was beautiful. The food was amazing, everything felt clean despite the ryokan’s age, and the private onsen lets you add cold water if it’s too hot. After soaking, we walked through the garden in our robes. I felt completely spoiled and relaxed. Can’t wait to return! 😊🥰❤️

The architecture inside and out is lovely, and there are lots of hot springs. You can reserve a private bath for free. I also liked the nearby river, with bamboo lit up at night. The meal was disappointing for me. I understand it’s a cultural difference, but parts of the fish, including the heart and stomach, aren’t things I eat. The stairs were steep, too.

We hired a car at Koriyama station, which made it easier to explore the area since the ryokan is a little out of the way. One thing to know is that there are stairs everywhere and no alternatives. With my mild ankle and knee problems, getting in and out was difficult at times. I knew that going in and was willing to manage, but I’d advise people with mobility issues against staying here. The baths were all wonderful. We liked the Saru hotspring best, and our room, Take (or “Bamboo”), had its own private onsen. There’s no shared mixed bathing, only gender-separated facilities, though rooms without a private onsen can use the single-use baths as a mixed group. They lock, and are available first come, first served. The building, with its beautiful wood, stone, and compacted earth, is stunning, and the gardens are something to see. We spotted a few fireflies there as well. The food was excellent. Staff were welcoming and seemed genuinely happy to help us, even with our foreign background. Their English varied, but we could understand each other, sometimes with Google Translate, and they happily listened to our very bad Japanese. My partner and I stayed July 15th to 19th, a long time for an onsen resort, but it was magical and well worth it. I’ve spent three months in Japan and stayed at several onsen in Honshu and Kyushu. This one was by far the best. A real hidden gem.