Hiranoya Ryokan <Kumamoto>

The room was huge, with a big bath and free laundry. The meal, though, was the most luxurious I've ever had: five kinds of fresh sashimi, scallop, shrimp, side dishes, and fish prepared every way imaginable. There was enough food for six, and the owner kept bringing in more alcohol. Nothing will ever compare, so I can never eat fish again. Eating all that made me feel like the parents in Spirited Away who turned into pigs.

The dinner comes with so much fish that finishing it seems impossible, and that's part of the fun, even if it's a bit overwhelming. It seems the place is run by a couple, and they're so lovely that I'd be glad to return.

The landlady was so kind, it made the stay feel comforting. Everything we ate was tasty, from the fish to the simmered and vinegared dishes. They froze the leftover fish and sent it along in an insulated bag, such thoughtful hospitality. The wifi was strong as well.

Even from a distance, the boat-shaped sashimi platter looked astonishing. Four adults gave it their best, but we couldn't finish it. We felt bad about leaving so much, but the staff kindly packed some for us to take home the next day, which gave us something to look forward to. The innkeepers, perhaps a couple, were incredibly friendly and kind, and we had a lovely stay. It's a bit far away, but we'd definitely like to come back.