Shimoda Onsen Maruco

The hot pot and simmered dishes had especially tasty broth, and there was plenty of fish and vegetables. The food was delicious, and the service was excellent. I was there the night before a nearby cycling event, and having a bicycle rack was a real plus for cyclists. The building is quite old, but it was clean and so well maintained inside, and the futons were spotless, that I barely noticed its age.

The morning coffee was delicious, and the bath looked just like the photos other guests posted. The parking lot is a little farther ahead from the hotel, and it gets somewhat dark at night, so keep that in mind. If you want modern hotel standards, this probably isn't the place. But for a weekend stay with two meals included, I thought it was a great deal, especially with prices so high these days. I was looking for an affordable weekend destination and was glad to find it. Kyushu has AZ Hotel, the king of budget hotels, but I thought this was even better.

From the inn, it's about a five-minute walk to a spot with a beautiful sunset view. Breakfast is on the light side, perhaps because most guests stay for dinner, and they brew different coffees depending on the mood. Dinner is generous and a good chance to enjoy fresh fish. This ryokan has stairs but no elevator, and the rooms are tatami style. I was surprised they put the futons away between meals. You can soak in the bath once, but getting it ready takes quite a bit of patience.

The rice was so sweet and delicious, and the fresh fish was cooked just right. The meals were really satisfying for the price. I also loved the special coffee at the end, with its rich bean aroma making a lovely finish to the meal. The inn has a nostalgic Showa-era feel. The facilities aren't new, but everything was clean and I could relax. The hot spring water was especially memorable, thick and smooth, and left my skin feeling incredibly soft. It's not flashy, but it stays with you.