Ryokan Fukumotokan

The steep stairs and lack of accessibility were the main drawbacks. There were hardly any barrier-free measures, and I wish they had an elevator or rooms on the first floor. Still, I ended up very happy with my stay. I hadn't been able to get a room at the inn I originally wanted, so I booked this one because it happened to be available. Its interior has a retro Showa-era, 1970s feel that I loved as a fan of the Showa era. The staff were polite and humble. Our typical Japanese-style room had 10 tatami mats, more than two people needed, and the toilet had a Western-style washlet, which was reassuring. The food was light and might not fill younger guests, but it was plenty for us. Men and women take turns using the large public bath and open-air bath. Maybe it's the spring water, but my skin felt moisturized. Bird and insect sounds made a lovely backdrop, and I could relax as if time had stopped. I'd like to return.

We visited at the end of the year, and with space for only 5-6 groups, the inn was peaceful and quiet. Our Japanese-style room was clean and nice. The kaiseki dinner was delicious and just the right amount, and breakfast was also tasty and Japanese-style. The open-air bath was at a comfortable temperature, neither too hot nor too lukewarm. The large public bath ran a bit hot, which may be tough if you prefer lukewarm water. It was quite cold that day, so we couldn't explore around the area. All in all, I was satisfied.

The food was what impressed me most. They clearly put a lot of care into it. After Ooyama tofu and appetizers came sashimi, with especially good whitebait and horse mackerel. The chawanmushi had a strong oyster taste, and the steamed scallops were served just as they opened. Following the classic river fish, ayu, there was tempura. Both the smelt and shrimp were rich and creamy, and the other seafood was high quality too. To finish, there was a generous double serving of wild boar hot pot and steak, just right after a hike. If the food becomes known as a new draw, I can see more people coming and wondering how the price can be right. Nanasawa isn't a famous tourist spot, but it's a favorite hidden place for me to avoid crowds in the Kanto region. On the way out, I borrowed the key and visited the Kobayashi Takiji room. The historical site is preserved separately, and I appreciate that the inn doesn't just rest on its own history. The building looks like a quaint old inn, while also making a real effort to add modern features. Our room was roomy, with an entrance, a futon and desk area, and a window area. It'd be comfortable for around four people. There was an indoor bath and an open-air one with a small indoor bath attached, switched between men and women. The spring water is cold, but you can use the hot spring valve to adjust the tub to your preferred temperature.

The inn is easy to reach by bus: take the Nanasawa bus from stop #9 at Hon-Atsugi Bus Terminal and get off at Nanasawa Hospital Entrance, then walk about 15 minutes. For a convenience store, get off at Hirosawaji Onsen. It has the feel of a good old-fashioned Japanese inn, but the rooms were beautiful, clean, and spacious. The futons were already laid out, and they provided bottled water, snacks, and stick tea, with more tea available if you ran out. There was Sekkisei oil cleanser, lotion, and emulsion at the sink, along with a hairdryer with decent airflow. Bath towels, towels, and yukata were provided too. There are vending machines inside. Maybe it used to be a high-class inn. The proprietress and manager who showed us around were both refined and polite. You can enjoy three baths, which switch at different times. The largest indoor one is probably the large public bath. The other indoor bath is small, while the open-air bath feels spacious and open. It closes at night and stays lukewarm, which was perfect for a relaxing soak. The shower pressure is very strong, so watch out. The spring water felt smooth, but it didn't leave my skin especially soft and supple. At another place I visited before, rated 10.7, just one bath made my skin incredibly smooth. For a room-only stay with an early start, you can leave the key on the reception desk. I bought a travel set at a convenience store but didn't need it. You can come empty-handed and still have a great place to relax from everyday stress. One small thing, if you ask reception for a comb, they'll give you a shower cap.