HOTEL de L'ALPAGE

The room was quiet and tastefully done, with lots of thoughtful details from the owner. I found it comfortable and even inspiring, and the setting and scenery are lovely for a restful stay. The iron is Refa, the hand soap is Diptyque, and the hotel name on the towels and tableware is a nice touch. There’s live music during events, too. But as a family with kids, we came away tired and disappointed. It’s a compact hotel, so the atmosphere feels quite close and limited. I’d pictured somewhere elegant and formal, though it actually feels more homey. It does fit its concept, I guess. The staff were friendly and considerate, and easy enough to talk to at first. Still, I didn’t feel like I could just wander around casually. During meals there were repeated reminders to my child not to leave food, along with comments that the meat was a luxury for them, maybe meaning kids don’t often get to eat that kind of meat. I’m sure it’s good, but we make our own hamburgers with carefully chosen meat, and we’re not trying to compete. Kids are used to quality food at decent restaurants, so depending on how it’s said, comments like that can feel rude. I also like seeing chefs happily working together, and the tense kitchen atmosphere bothered me a bit. We stay at different hotels about once a month. My kids usually enjoy chatting with staff and exploring the rooms, so we’re used to family-friendly places. Maybe it depends on the day, but here they seemed out of place. The restaurant was so tiring I can barely remember what we ate. 😂

I keep coming back because I want to enjoy everything this place has to offer. It’s a charming hotel with an old Showa-era feel, and the food is genuinely excellent. It isn’t dirty, but compared with the spotless city hotels you see now, there’s a little dusty smell from the curtains. Rooms facing north also feel dark. I’ve stayed here several times.

I’ve been based in Nagano for a while, so I don’t stay here much these days. I’d like to come back for an overnight stay and get lost in that otherworldly atmosphere again. I first stayed here decades ago, and now I mostly visit for tea. The cheesecake is exquisite, and the coffee still tastes just as it always has. In spring and summer I sit in the garden, then move indoors from autumn through winter. The furnishings, staff uniforms, and Tyrolean tablecloths all make it feel like Heidi’s world, which is so cute. I’ve loved the fruit-packed blueberry jam from the shop for years, too.

The front desk staff were gentle, polite, and easy to chat with. The hotel had a nice in-between feel, more personal than a big resort or ryokan but less intimate than a guesthouse or pension. At night I heard rain and stepped out onto the terrace. An insect flew in, and I wound up with three swollen bites that looked like gnat bites. Next time I’ll be more careful at a mountain hotel.