Makukawa Onsen Mitoya Ryokan

The slippers and sandals didn't look very clean, and I prefer the nearby Yoshikuraya. Still, the two open-air baths here are mixed, and you can enjoy two different kinds of hot springs without changing clothes, unlike at Yoshikuraya.

It's an old, faded facility, but it was clean. The separate outdoor bath is wonderful.

The hosts and staff were kind and charming, just as other reviews said. This feels like an inn worth supporting. The room was spacious and very clean, apparently renovated, with a toilet and sink. The mountain road takes about 10 minutes, and you have to drive slowly. At times you need to pass fast cars and oncoming traffic. Being deep in the mountains also means stink bugs and grasshoppers show up often. That's understandable, but people who are particular about cleanliness or don't enjoy remote hot spring inns may not like it. For someone looking for that kind of place, it was great. The indoor spring had a slight mineral taste and a faint sulfur smell. Depending on the time of day, the open-air bath turned cloudy white and had a lovely atmosphere. I chose the shabu-shabu dinner, which was so generous I couldn't finish it, especially with the alcohol. It was quite a feast. It was an emotional stay.

Keeping a secluded hot spring inn running through heavy snow and yearly river flooding must be hard, and I'm grateful they keep at it. I hope they continue. The inn is seasonal, open from May or June until early November, and closes in winter. Repairs apparently aren't easy because of the snowfall and floods. I visited in autumn as the leaves were just starting to change. The hot springs are wonderful, though I was a little disappointed the water wasn't as cloudy as it used to be. There used to be a riverside outdoor bath, but maybe nature has taken its toll. My favorite is the semi-open-air bath inside, which feels very freeing. The meals are familiar Japanese dishes made with local ingredients. Maybe a more distinctive menu, like katsu curry and a salad platter using local produce, could draw more people.