Gero Onsen Yukyunohana

I was glad to find English-speaking staff, and the onsen were fantastic. Tattoos are allowed, and the upstairs bath looks out over the river. The check-in service was poor by Japanese standards: it felt like the staff wanted to rush through it, and they explained very little. There was far too much food at both breakfast and dinner. They did accommodate a vegetarian meal made with dashi, and let us know about that in advance.

The natural hot spring water is clear and feels lovely on the skin, and the two bathing areas make the place feel almost like paradise. The cuisine is so good that I can’t do it justice in a short review.

Everything about our stay was lovely. The room was very clean, the outdoor bath was nice, and our plan included a kaiseki dinner. The staff were thoughtful and attentive. We’d be happy to stay at this same hotel again next time we’re in town.

The kaiseki dinner and breakfast were delicious, with lots of little surprises among the small dishes, presented beautifully in Japanese wooden and ceramic plates and bowls. The onsen itself is the best I’ve tried so far: the temperature was just right, and the first step seat was the perfect height. The facilities feel like a relic from the past, but they’re clean and well maintained. They provide bright-colored onsen baskets, with old-fashioned, muted yukata for men and really colorful ones for women. There aren’t lockers at the onsen, but there are massage chairs and foot massage machines to ease tiredness. After such thoughtful onsen service and attention to detail, I felt a little disappointed here. They seem eager to update the hardware, and perhaps some of the service side needs updating too.