Toshichi Onsen Saiunso

This is a place for onsen lovers, with one of the wildest hot spring inns and an excellent outdoor bath. Air bubbles rise as spring water comes up from the bottom, and the cloudy water smells of sulfur and gunpowder. The facilities are old and tilted, though our room and linens were clean. Food is served buffet-style, even during the Covid-19 crisis. The women’s outdoor bath sits among the mixed baths, so not every woman may feel comfortable using it. Women-only bathing time is 19:30-20:30.

The baths were excellent, and the staff made our two-night stay wonderful. They were warm and accommodating, especially the very kind man in the dining room. Since they don’t seem to get many Western tourists, he checked in with us often to see if everything was okay. When rain started during our hike, he even made sure we got back safely. Our Japanese-style room had tatami mats, no bed, a private toilet, and a view of the outdoor baths and a mountain. Room number 31 was great, and we slept incredibly well. The kerosene heater was the one small concern. After reading safety advisories, we turned it off before bed, but stayed warm all night under the thick blankets despite the temperature dropping to 27 degrees Fahrenheit, below zero Celsius. There are six outdoor pools, five mixed and one women-only, plus an indoor men’s Onsen and an indoor women’s Onsen. Every night from 7:30-8:30, the outdoor baths are women-only. The setting is rustic, with pools beside snowbanks, at least in early May, and a great mountain view. The pools have lovely green mud that can do wonders for your skin. I have psoriasis, and it helped me. Breakfast and dinner are included, with an incredible range of food. We’re vegan, and even though we skipped the many fish options, we ate very well. We also enjoyed a hike to the top of Mount Moridoke, I think that’s the name, and there are other trails nearby. The mountain countryside is spectacular. Highly recommend.

This is an outdoor onsen with sulfur-rich mud in the pools, and it’s definitely not for everyone. The baths are mixed, and they can be seen from the road, though there is a small private area for women. It’s a very different kind of experience, but I really enjoyed it. The location high up in Hachimantai is fantastic.

This traditional hot spring is right at the top of the national park. If you want to experience the wild while bathing without clothes, it’s a great choice. Book through the website or by email. It’s also best to drive up earlier, since the national park road usually closes around 8 PM.