Hakone Pax Yoshino

I took a star off because cigarette smells linger in several parts of the building. I also wasn’t happy that guests with tattoos are barred from the communal onsen, though I understand this is a fairly common onsen custom. I felt they could have offered a discount on the private onsen as a gesture, but we paid full price for what could have been a free guest amenity. The hotel does feel dated, but I didn’t mind too much. I liked the retro feel, though I understand some people prefer modern facilities. Pax Yoshino is a riverside hotel in the well-known hot spring town of Hakone-Yumoto, and a relaxed, casual base for a Hakone stay. The rooms are sizeable and very clean, and the facilities are more than adequate. Some go beyond expectations: there are private and communal onsens, a karaoke room, a relaxation room, a lobby, and table tennis spaces. Japanese hotels are often held to a high standard, and Pax Yoshino is no exception.

The nice view from our room came with a catch: there was a huge parking structure right behind the river. We paid for the dinner and breakfast package, but dinner was so bad the first night that we skipped it the next. Staff said they couldn’t refund it, which we understood. The rice was cooked in a pot for about 40 minutes and came out like mush, probably with too much water. The seasonal appetizers and dessert were the only okay parts. The tempura side tasted okay, but the mix included corn and chicken breast, which I would have liked to see listed on the menu in advance. Everything else was nasty. The wooden bath in our room looked like it had mold in the cracks, so I didn’t feel comfortable using it. I’d suggest booking only the stone private onsen. We wanted to book it while it was still light so we could see the nature, but staff said they couldn’t give us an earlier-than-sundown slot. I didn’t see anyone on the booking list and wasn’t sure why. Each time we went, it was pitch black outside, which felt scary, not relaxing, and there was no riverside view to enjoy. The yukata didn’t work for me either. I normally wear a US women’s size 3X / 26 for dresses. They offered up to 3L, but it didn’t fit, and it was so long that even if it had fit, I would have had a huge train behind me. It wasn’t a major issue since lots of guests wore their own clothes, but I was sad to miss out. The lobby had a nice place to relax, but no fresh air, and the cigarette machine and smoking area, separated by only one wall, made the whole lobby smell disgusting. The free popsicles were also only available for limited hours. We came down after bathing around 9, and the freezer was covered and marked unavailable, even though the baths were open until about 3am. Why have opening and closing hours for an unmanned freezer? We were told to tell the staff when we planned to leave so someone could wait outside and wave down the bus back to the station. I gave the departure time as requested, and the staff member said she’d come out. She never did, so we had to walk to the station with our luggage. I wouldn’t stay again. It was my first ryokan experience, and next time I’ll choose a different one.

The location is lovely, and you can walk to shops and restaurants. The onsen was very nice, and the lobby was a cool place to hang out with books and coffee. It was great value, cheaper than the hotels nearby. Our “Western” economy room had a “mid century modern” historical feel, but everything worked fine. The front desk let us use the onsen if we covered our tattoos, though the covering ended up being weirdly expensive. I don’t know if that’s standard. We had a great night and would stay again.

The futons turned out to be really comfortable, and the staff set them up while we were having dinner. I was unsure about sleeping on them at first. Dinner was one of the best meals I’ve had in Japan, and they made a vegetarian version for me. We also tried the hot springs, with public and private options at very good prices. Yukata and slippers were provided for wearing around the hotel, including to meals. We only stayed one night, but it was a lovely way to experience a traditional ryokan in a calm, relaxing setting. I’d happily return.