Shirayu no Yado Yamadaya

The outside onsen tubs are private and have lovely mountain views. There are separate men’s and women’s rooms, and they switch from time to time, including in the morning. It’s worth trying both if you can, by visiting the baths more than once. Check the sign outside, and there’s also a schedule sheet in your room. It’s a relaxing place with excellent service, and only a short walk to the bus stop and cable cars. If you’re plus size in the US, the relaxation outfits may not be big enough. You can wear your own street clothes to the baths, though, so that shouldn’t stop you enjoying the facilities.

Yamadaya, thank you! We stayed one night between Tokyo and Kyoto, and the place had an old-fashioned charm that felt real rather than staged. I’d take this kind of authentic Ryokan over a contemporary hotel. Our room had wide views of the mountain range, and the accommodation was impressive. The downstairs indoor and outdoor onsens had mountain views and were open at many hours, from 6am into the night. Shampoo, conditioner, facial lotions, hair dryers and more were provided. We also booked massages at the last minute, and the masseuses were kind, friendly professionals. The traditional Japanese dinner was beautifully made. The salmon was the freshest I’ve had so far on my trip in Japan. The staff were accommodating and very friendly. I’d stay again in a heartbeat. (From Australia)

The room had a good view, and the staff were friendly and welcoming. We stayed one night with dinner and breakfast included. The food was good and very traditional, and we enjoyed the private onsen, though it wasn’t well maintained. The tatami room was old and looked like it had seen better days. The freezer was unusable because it hadn’t been maintained and was full of ice.

There was a shared public onsen on our floor, and its outdoor bath was lovely. Still, we wouldn’t recommend staying here. Our booking listed a bathtub and an open-air bath tub, so we were surprised to be charged extra to use the private bathtub upstairs. The food was okay, but really difficult for vegetarians. When I asked for just vegetables, they weren’t flexible. I also struggled to communicate with the front desk staff and found them unfriendly, although the woman who served our room was attentive.