Oku-kinosaki Seaside Hotel

The sea view and beach are incredible. I’d definitely choose a room facing the water, because waking up to the sunrise is wonderful. This is a charming retro ryokan on the Sea of Japan, way off the beaten path and a good fit for a slow, relaxing escape in the Japanese countryside. Takeno is a sleepy village without much entertainment or food, but there’s plenty to do at the hotel: karaoke, the onsen, a piano and vintage Nintendo 64 games in the lobby, ice cream vending machines, a restaurant, and a souvenir shop with locally sourced goods. Not everyone on staff speaks English, so if your Japanese is limited like mine, keep Google Translate handy.

The small room I stayed in smelled musty, as did the bed linen and towels, and the toilet stank. The hotel is poorly maintained and badly needs a refresh. I imagine it must have been grand in its day, though the larger rooms could have been great.

A no-frills hotel right beside the ocean, in a beautiful location. Breakfast was good, too. The rooms are old and the property is showing its age, but the surroundings make up for what the hotel is lacking.

We had kaiseki dinner in the hotel function room. The staff were very friendly, and the food was delicious. It’s a cozy hotel with Japanese-style rooms and a beautiful sea view. The onsen is small, but comfortable, with an outdoor bath.