Yoshidaya Sannokaku

The Kaga Onsen area has been a lovely surprise. The town center has been revitalized, with an old-fashioned hot spring, boutiques, and cafes, and the new bullet train makes getting here from Tokyo easy. We took a local bus to Yamanaka Onsen and Katayamazu Onsen, and often had the springs to ourselves on weekdays. There are plenty of public soto yu baths around the station, too. At the hotel, the value is hard to beat: for about $160 a night for two, we got a room, Japanese breakfast, three hours of drinks and snacks at happy hour, and a 90-minute seafood dinner with endless crab, other seafood, sake, beer, and shochu. There are also three hot springs inside. For us, the faded mid-century style is part of the appeal, from the marble hallways and Greco-Roman baths to the golden phoenix in the lobby and spacious Japanese-style rooms. The town has declined since its 1960s-to-80s heyday, and some buildings near the hotel are vacant and rundown, though the center is looking much better. The hotel’s old-fashioned feel may not suit everyone, and tattoos aren’t allowed. We travel all over Japan, and this has been the best value we’ve found. The staff were so friendly that I decided to share the word, even though I’d worried about the place being spoiled by too much tourism. I love it here and highly recommend it.