Chikurinso

You reach this secluded place by following a path that makes you wonder whether you've arrived at the right spot. Once there, the bamboo grove and atmosphere make it feel extraordinary. Only two guests are accommodated, in the main house and annex. The main building is a renovated old Japanese home, with a lovely courtyard and soothing bamboo sounds and views. The owner cooks everything over the hearth, and every dish was delicious. Annex guests come to the main house for meals; afterward, the main house is for overnight guests only. The bath isn't a hot spring, though the owner said the water is close to one. There seem to be quite a few definitions of hot springs, but it does leave your skin very smooth. A wonderful inn, highly recommended.

I came back two years later, and the service was still just right, while the food tasted as good as I remembered. This time dinner included Japanese Black Beef. I'm middle-aged now, so the amount of delicious fat made me wonder if I'd feel heavy the next day, but I finished it without that bloated feeling. Just as good as ever. On my first visit, I was struck by how quiet it was with only two groups accepted each day, and how comfortable the service felt, neither intrusive nor distant. The cypress bath smelled lovely. The food was all delicious, especially the local-seeming seafood, vegetables, and rice from around Katsuura. The whole abalone and shrimp were excellent, but pumpkin soup surprised me most. It came in a hollowed pumpkin that was edible too, soft and sweet, and I ate every bit.

This inn accepts just two groups each day and sits in a tucked-away spot that feels almost like a house on its own. We stayed in the annex, a converted storehouse, which was comfortable in the refreshing autumn air. It's the only building with a small TV, has two beds upstairs, and apparently can sleep three if futons are added. Guests wear samue instead of yukata, and there is air conditioning on both floors. Meals are served in the main house. At the back of the annex is a stone bath where you can soak in alkaline water while looking at the bamboo grove. The setting feels atmospheric, and the tub is big enough for two adults to stretch out, with a washing area for two as well. The inn takes steps such as disinfection to reduce contact between guests. In the mossy courtyard, a cherry tree stands prominently at the center, giving the place a strong sense of Japan. I think it's worth visiting at least once.

A husband and wife run this inn in a very peaceful area. The meat, seafood, and vegetables cooked over the hearth grill were incredible, and the food was delicious. I also found the baths relaxing, especially with the lights off and the night view all around. Highly recommended if you want a traditional Japanese atmosphere.