Sanbi no yado Ryokan Kawana

Getting there took me about two hours by train from Tokyo Station, changing at Kimitsu for the Uchibo Line to Aohori. Trains from both Kimitsu and Aohori run about once an hour, so check the times and make sure you board the right train on the Sōbu-Yukata line. Don’t accidentally get on the NEX to Narita. From Aohori I walked 24 minutes. It’s doable, and Google Maps takes you along a pleasant river route, but about 55% of the way is on a busy road without sidewalks, so I wouldn’t recommend that walk with kids or wheeled luggage. There seemed to be taxis at the station when I passed on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning, and the drive is about five minutes. There’s also a bus from Tokyo that gets you closer, though it costs around ¥1,000 more. The inn has a quiet, relaxing feel and was very clean. I’ve stayed at plenty of ryokans around Japan, including Hakone and Nikko, but this one felt special. They greeted me in English, explained how to use the onsen, and gave me written instructions too, which helped since I forget spoken directions quickly. My Japanese-style room was tidy, with hot water already in the kettle and calming music playing when I arrived. Yukata in sizes S-XL were ready in the dresser, so I could head straight to the baths after checking in. I was traveling alone and had no limitations, though I believe the rooms with attached private baths require at least two guests. I chose breakfast and was amazed by both the quality and the huge amount of food. I don’t eat much, especially in the morning, and had to leave some even though it was wonderful. If you don’t eat seafood, tell the staff when booking, since several dishes include it, including mussels in the miso soup. The baths were probably my favorite part. There are four private outdoor baths, available whenever they’re vacant, plus indoor baths that switch between men and women at different times of day. I liked being able to walk in without booking a time slot at check-in, before I even knew my dinner plans. Each bath is a little different, with details in a booklet in the room. They’re very clean and well cared for. I’m quite particular about mold, but never felt uncomfortable in any of them. The outdoor baths close at 9 pm and the front office at 10, so plan ahead if you’ll arrive late. The closest restaurant is a Chinese place about three minutes down a busy street. Despite what some reviews say, I thought it was very nice, with good food and a newly renovated interior. The staff were friendly and chatted with me in Japanese, which gave me a chance to practice. Other nearby places to look up are Shinmon Village Cafe, Cafe Grand・Fosse, and Ramen Dining Sudoraa. When I got off at Aohori, the busy streets and ordinary-looking suburb made me wonder how peaceful the place could be. But once you check in, put on a yukata, and wander over to the private baths, it’s easy to see the appeal.