REF Kumamoto by VESSEL HOTELS

The location, quiet rooms, thoughtful amenities, lovely onsen, and friendly staff all made me want to love this place. But that bed was rock hard, and the odd pillows left my back and neck hurting each night of our three-day stay. The thin topper barely helped with the extra-firm mattress. I would have rated it higher if I’d been able to get decent rest.

You can start the day with a soak in the public bath, then head down to a breakfast spread that changes some dishes each day. The buffet at REF Kumamoto by Vessel Hotels has a polished, international feel, and there were plenty of overseas guests when I went. It’s served from 7:00 to 10:00 AM and costs ¥1,800 for hotel guests or ¥2,000 for outside guests. That may sound steep, but I thought the range and quality justified it. There are Japanese and Western staples alongside Kumamoto specialties, including Kumamoto ramen, local sweets, and shochu. The choice was nearly twice what I usually see at hotel breakfasts. My favorite was the Akaushi (red beef) hamburg steak, which you grill yourself. They also have burger buns, so you can put together your own burger. It was juicy and full of flavor. The hotel is a short walk from the "Karashimacho" streetcar stop. If you want a filling breakfast and a taste of Kumamoto, I’d recommend giving this buffet a try.

The bathhouse is popular and often crowded, but it’s worth waiting for. I also liked the free lockers at the front and the welcome-home drinks each day, with a particularly good selection. The place was clean, well equipped, and the service was great, all in a very convenient location. For the price, it offers plenty, and I’d stay here again.

The onsen on the third floor was a lot of fun: there’s a large indoor bath and three outdoor ones, each sized for one or two people. It does get quite busy, since the hotel has a lot of rooms and is usually close to full. After bathing, you can pick up a free popsicle in the lounge outside the entrance. The rooms are clean, average-sized for Japan, and receive daily housekeeping. The hotel is right in central Kumamoto, opposite Sakura Machi shopping centre and on the way to Shimotori Shotengai. The nearest tram stop is about a two-minute walk away. Driving there can be confusing. Google Maps may send you to an entrance at the rear, since you can’t drive to the actual entrance that opens into the shopping arcade. If someone is with you, you could briefly stop on Fujidori Street to unload bags before taking the car to a car park. Lots are around five minutes away, and it’s also manageable to carry lighter bags straight from there. Parking isn’t free, but the hotel gives discount vouchers. If I remember right, that brings the daily cost to about ¥1,200.