Ryokan Yaya No Yu

The staff speak only Japanese, so a Japanese-speaking companion can help, though a translation app should work well too. One lovely touch is that each guest gets a cute, colorful yukata to wear, which adds to the cozy traditional feel. And cat lovers will find lots of friendly kitties around the grounds. The ryokan sits in peaceful, scenic countryside, about 45 minutes by bus from Kumamoto Station. It's a relaxing getaway, though the walk from the bus stop is short, so it's best to travel light rather than bring all your suitcases. The spacious guest rooms each have a private outdoor onsen and shower and bathing area set in a beautifully kept garden. The water feels silky, has a light sulfur scent, and is wonderfully soothing. The meals are excellent. Dinner is an elaborate multi-course spread with local specialties, including fresh sashimi, rice, abalone, crab, and tender wagyu beef, all carefully presented. Breakfast is just as impressive, with plenty of variety and flavor. A peaceful place with lovely food, private bathing, and a little feline charm.

The dinner was five-star in both its food and presentation. It began with an aperitif and appetizers, then shijimi clam miso soup, green "glass" salad, sashimi, and prawn. Each seat had its own pot of rice starting to cook, followed by abalone, crab, Wagu beef and vegetables, pumpkin soup, and dessert. Breakfast was just as impressive: fresh-baked butter rolls, grilled saba, mentaiko, pork sausage, a slice of tamagoyaki, miso soup, steaming hot rice, and an optional raw egg. Everything was delicious. Yayanoya gave us the relaxing onsen stay we wanted. Each room has Wifi for anyone who needs to stay connected, plus a private outdoor Onsen and shower and bathing area in a well-kept garden. The water felt silky, with a slight Sulphur smell, and soaking was very relaxing. It's around 45 minutes by car or cab from Kumamoto Station, in a quiet cluster of homes and a few other Ryokans. The staff speak only Japanese, but Google translator made communication easy. They were attentive and very helpful, and the manager arranged a taxi for our trip back to Kumamoto.

The rooms and food made the trip worthwhile, even though getting there without a car takes some effort. My wife and I arrived after an hour on the bus from Kumamoto, then a 20-minute walk through torrential rain with a suitcase each. The welcome was warm, and staff helped dry our shoes and luggage without being asked. We could each fill a small basket with things for our stay, including face wash, a toothbrush and paste, a hairbrush, socks, and a yukata. Our room was very spacious, with a lovely private onsen out back. The hospitality was fantastic. We'd happily recommend it to anyone looking for a Ryokan with a private onsen.

The dinner and breakfast were immaculate, with Japanese and Italian dishes from a chef who studied in both countries. Kondo served drinks after each course, and the dining area looked out onto an intimate garden. I also loved the jazz playing around the Ryokan. The other attendants were kind about bringing us water and towels. We stayed in the spacious room whose name starts with “Z.” Its hot spring bath sits among a lush garden, and there’s a cold water hose to cool the bath if it gets too hot. I’d read a complaint about the shower temperature, but that wasn’t our experience. You just have to wait a few minutes for the water to heat up. There’s a small bar and lounge with self-serve alcohol, soft drinks, coffee, and sweets. We were lucky to visit during the owner’s birthday month. We also picked out our own yukatas, and I was given a little bag of Mimi cosmetics, though I’m not sure that’s the right name, with face cream, lotion, and cleanser. From the start, manager Kondo and the staff made us feel welcome and went out of their way to help. I mentioned that I’d lost my phone in Tokyo before arriving, and Kondo called the police station to check whether it had been turned in. He also took us into a nearby town, paid for our museum tickets, and showed us local sights, including cherry blossom lane. When it was time to get to the airport, he drove us himself. I travel a lot, and this ryokan is a real gem, with five-star service in a down-to-earth setting and employees who are wonderfully kind. We hope to come back. Arigatou ☺️