Kibune Fujiya

Dinner and breakfast were good, and eating beside the river was a nice part of the stay. Still, for the price, the experience didn’t feel worth it to me. The room was plain, more like a basic bedroom in a traditional house than a luxury hotel room, and the futons weren’t comfortable, especially for someone tall or a bit heavier. The meals were enjoyable, but if you mainly want to eat by the river, a much cheaper restaurant can offer the same view, though not a gastronomic meal. The Ryokan is in a beautiful spot near the river, where you can dine above the water. But if you book a room with a river view, don’t expect to actually see the river, you’ll only see the roof in front of it. The staff had difficulty speaking English, but they tried using translators. The room is traditional, with a futon and Yukata, though there was very little information about the room or how to wear the Yukata properly. Bring a sleep mask if you don’t want sunlight in your face at 5 am. There wasn’t much privacy in the shower area. Once outside the shower, there’s no door, just a small partition where people in the corridor can see you. Also, drinks weren’t included in the meal menu and had to be paid for afterward.

We had a lovely night with dinner and breakfast included. The staff were so hospitable, and although we didn’t share a common language, we slowly and happily muddled through together.

For a lovely day out from Kyoto, get off the Kurama train one stop early at Kibune and walk up the valley. The whole valley is beautiful. Stop for lunch at one of the restaurants over the river, then take the ridge trail over the hill and come down through the Temple to Kurama Station for the return train to Kyoto.

It’s a beautiful place to stay, but the service didn’t quite meet my expectations. I was hoping to get stuck in a two-minute time loop and discover myself, and instead I’m back at my same boring city job.