Tawaraya Ryokan

The staff felt just as welcoming as you’d expect at a traditional Japanese ryokan, and the building has real charm. Its historic doors and furniture are elegant, and the Japanese gardens are well cared for. But at ¥343,000 a night for two people, I expected much more. I stayed in the largest room, the Luxury Suite “Taka,” on December 5th, yet it felt extremely basic and less sophisticated inside than other ryokans in Kyoto. The reservation agent said the high rate was due to peak season, though the single dried maple branch in the garden made it look as if the season had already passed. The food didn’t meet expectations either. The kaiseki dinner was just fine, while the Western breakfast was disappointing: scrambled eggs, a stale croissant, and a few pieces of fruit. The experience doesn’t justify the cost, and it feels like the ryokan is relying on the reputation of its history.

We shared a lovely large table in our room with our friends, and changing into robes for dinner felt wonderfully cozy. The stay was unforgettable, and so peaceful that “peaceful” hardly covers it.

Spending a night or more at this ryokan was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. The calm and relaxation were wonderful, and the traditional Kyoto cuisine was the best.

The location is fantastic, on a quiet street with lots of boutique businesses nearby. From the moment you arrive, the staff are right there to help, always very politely. Each room has a dedicated attendant who serves the elaborate meals in your room and handles concierge needs. That kind of personal service is something only the rich can afford at Western resorts. This was probably one of the most amazing stays I’ve had.