Terazuya Ryokan

The old place is clean and has a nostalgic, retro atmosphere. It's run by a couple. The landlady cooks dinner herself, which looks like a lot of work, and she was friendly enough to serve matcha after breakfast. Her husband, though, kept interrupting the meal with stories about himself. Some things he said were pretty off-putting, though who knows how much was true. Dinner comes with bottled beer and sake, but no draft beer. The bath isn't a hot spring, but it's spacious and can be locked while you're in it. Water pressure is very weak, so washing long hair could take a while. The train tracks run right beside the building, but no trains pass at night, so it didn't bother me. The TV stand leans a bit and the air conditioner remote batteries were dead, but those quirks add to the place's character. It's also close to the station and Lake Shinji.

The owners, an elderly couple, are warm and interesting, and both breakfast and dinner were tasty and imaginative. They can also prepare catered bento boxes. Prices are fairly reasonable compared with Matsue these days. It's an old wooden inn, with Japanese-style rooms that have no toilet, and sounds from the next room and nearby trains carry through. Those things are part of the retro character, which you have to be comfortable with. It takes about ten minutes to walk to Matsue Station, and for now Jalan seems to be the only online booking option. I came back for the first time in 11 years and felt strangely relieved that almost nothing had changed, lol. I hope the couple stays well.

Lunch only, and the steamed sushi is a real bargain at 1,100 yen. The owner's wife serve it all year, generously topped with seasonal fish and vegetables, alongside clam miso soup, little side dishes, pickles, fruit, and coffee. Their funny back-and-forth is a delight.

They have private rooms and a menu ranging from hot pot to kaiseki. The crab was delicious, and at this time of year I'd probably go for the hot pot.