Kikunoyu Ryokan

A nice lunch.

We got to enjoy the large public bath all to ourselves, which was really relaxing. The old building has a lot of charm, and the warm hospitality helped me recover from the trip. My room was in the historic part, so it wasn’t very airtight, but the heated carpet and air conditioning kept it warm. Dinner and breakfast were both thoughtfully prepared and delicious. The thick sashimi, crispy tempura and appetizers all went well with a drink, and I was so full I felt ready to burst. I’d happily recommend this favorite inn to people visiting Matsumoto. One concern: the guest room Wi-Fi isn’t encrypted, and I’d like to see it secured.

*Review as of November 2025 The lobby made a strong impression on me, with its broad ceiling and bold beams. The building is apparently a traditional Shinshu-style house called Honmune-zukuri. It was warm on my visit, so I took off my down jacket and rolled up my sleeves. They use a wood-burning stove on cold days, which I’ll have to see another time. The inn is in a residential area, but the view of the garden from my Araragi room felt far removed from that. It was autumn foliage season, and the falling leaves were beautiful. I also felt at ease that the door from the lobby to the guest rooms was closed at night. I came for a two-day, one-night reward trip with a longtime friend. The staff were thoughtful, and despite the building’s age, everything was immaculately clean. The furnishings were beautiful, and the space is full of folk art displayed almost like a museum. It never felt stuffy, though, and the lobby was especially welcoming. There are only a few rooms, but it seemed like they take real care of each guest. The food was delicious and filling, just as other reviews say. Each dish was carefully made, and the broth was especially good. My favorite was the soy-simmered earthenware pot. Breakfast was substantial and nutritious; I even finished the fruit dessert and still went back for another serving of rice. LOL I loved the hot spring’s design as much as the bathing. The marble is shaped after the chrysanthemum that gives the inn its name, and the tub backs are rounded like petals instead of having the usual square edges. The changing room chairs were custom-made from iron and leather. Their rugged but slender lines suited the calm space. Since we stayed on a Sunday when there were few guests, we had the bath to ourselves without any coverings, which felt like a real luxury. I even got a little cheeky and cooled off in there. There are two baths, and they switch at 10 PM. They’re unavailable from midnight until 6 AM. The Chrysanthemum Bath is the large one with chrysanthemum marble, while the smaller Red Bath has an open-air bath. Matsumoto Station is some distance away, so I took a bus to Asama Onsen, about 17 minutes, then walked a short way from the stop. There are cafes and Tegamisha related to Matsumoto Jujo nearby, enough to spend the day in the area.

It felt like coming home. This long-established Asama Onsen inn has an intimate scale, so I could unwind without worrying about other guests. The rooms, baths, meals and atmosphere were all superb, and it’s among my three favorite places I’ve stayed. The food was simple and comforting, with the warmth of home cooking, yet clearly made with care. Breakfast especially was exquisite, the warmest and most delicious inn breakfast I can remember. It’s also a historic place where manga artists including Osamu Tezuka have stayed, and their illustrations are displayed in the bath.