Pension Norikura

The food was home-cooked, generous at dinner, and delicious. At breakfast the jam was so good that I went back for more bread and ate it all. I even bought some to take home. The building is old, but it's been kept up enough that nothing felt uncomfortable. In the indoor bath, the water was quite hot near the entrance and a comfortable temperature in the reclining bath. That bath could strain your neck if you're under 170 cm. I lifted the lid on the outdoor bath to check, but the water was too cool, so I didn't get in. I'd warm up well in the indoor bath before trying it. The private bath was a comfortable space, just the right size and temperature.

We chose this inn as a base for visiting Kamikochi and Norikura, and the price felt reasonable despite the place being a little dated. The dinner was a real highlight, with lots of wild vegetables, char, and especially tender steak. There are three baths that you can apparently use privately by taking turns. We booked the early check-out plan, left around 5-6 AM, and caught the first bus to Kamikochi.

The surroundings are lovely, and Wi-Fi is available. Though the guesthouse is on the old side, its facilities are decent. There are three private onsen rooms shared on a first-come, first-served basis, plus a public bath. Dinner came in generous portions, including Hida beef and crispy fried small fish, followed by caramel ice cream and apple tarts. It met my expectations.

The meals feel like a treat, and the hot springs are wonderful. The rooms are pretty basic, but for climbing Mt. Norikura this place is hard to beat, with the bus terminal just a six-minute walk away.