Mikan Hotel

The room was clean, and the toilet and shower were fine. But despite the name “Hotel Mikan,” it didn't really feel like a hotel. Someone greeted me, though nobody explained anything. The place came across more like a worn-down youth center, and being the only guest made it a little eerie at night. Bring your own food, since there isn't a supermarket nearby. I spent one night here while walking the Kumano Kodo trail.

We had a comfortable, spacious room for our family of four, my wife, our two grown sons, and me. Two bicycles were available to borrow for free, which was handy for getting around. Check-in at 4pm and checkout at 9am felt early. For a one-night stay, that may leave little time to explore the area. One evening we ate in town, and on the way back we came across five or six deer together.

There aren't grocery shops nearby, so it's probably a good idea to buy what you need in Kumano City or Shingu City before arriving. Saguri Chaya is close, but shuts early. The nearest roadside stop might be Itaya Kurobe no Sato. I was cycling through the area and found the place convenient for arriving by car too, with a parking lot. They had two free bikes, which looked useful for a casual ride around, though I didn't try them myself. The renovated kindergarten has a nostalgic feel, with lots of picture books. The owner greeted me warmly at dusk, then came back later that evening and left me on my own. He'd explained everything carefully, and there was a clear sign in the room. Coffee was free and self-serve, the WiFi was strong enough for uploading my articles and photos, and the bath was open all day and night. They'd provided everything we could need.

Staying here means getting the unusual experience of sleeping in a former kindergarten. The building is in a mountain village surrounded by nature, and there isn't even a convenience store or vending machine within walking distance. The hotel seems to be jointly run by the city and private sector as part of a town renewal effort. There's no dedicated staff on site, and it's mostly self-service, with guests contacted by phone if something needs attention. During the day, an on-site natural cafe serves organic meals.