Syoujyuen Ryokan

This is a cozy little ryokan run by the Higuchi family, with just five rooms. The food and hospitality were both great, and the rooms come in either traditional Japanese tatami or Japanese western style. Four rooms look out over the lake, and I'd recommend booking one of those. The inn faces the road, so passing cars can be heard, but otherwise it's a great choice.

I came alone this time, though I've taken all kinds of trips here by myself and as a couple. The inn has five rooms looking over the lakeside at Sarugakyo Onsen. When I parked, the landlady was already outside to greet me. It was the quickest welcome I've ever had, and her personality and warmth came through during check-in too. I felt at ease right away. I stayed in Heian, a one-room apartment-style room on the second floor with tatami flooring and a spectacular lake view. I had both dinner and breakfast in my room because I was alone. For two people, dinner is served in the room and breakfast in the first-floor dining room. Groups of three or more have both meals in the dining room. The chef made a handmade kaiseki meal. The portions might be small for younger guests, but they're just right if you want to take your time with a variety of dishes. Even served in the room, each course came at a good pace, so hot food stayed hot and cold food stayed cold. There was a broad choice of alcoholic drinks, and I especially enjoyed the local craft beer. Dinner started at 6am, so I sat by the window and watched the sunset over the lake as the insects chirped. Breakfast was excellent too, with plenty of choices and a reminder of how good Japanese food can be. I ate every grain of rice in the cooker. The inn's hospitality was lovely, from the hostess to the skilled chef and serving staff. They also have a mascot cat, Yellow, who can come greet you while dinner is being cleared if you ask. Cat lovers will find that hard to resist. Yellow is tame, comes into the room, and rubs against you, though cats can be fickle and a little tsundere. Just enjoy the moment and don't force it. The cat-themed decor throughout the inn made me smile as another cat lover. There are no baths in the rooms, just two private baths on the first floor. With five rooms and two baths, it worked out fine. I used them after arriving, before bed, and after waking up, and the reservation system was easy to understand and reassuring. The water is a calcium-sodium sulfate chloride spring, slightly alkaline, mellow, and almost odorless. It's said to help with neuralgia, muscle and joint pain, frozen shoulder, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, sensitivity to cold, fatigue, cuts, burns, chronic dermatitis, and arteriosclerosis. There are lots of amenities, including separate bath cleansers for men and women, so you can arrive empty-handed and still be well equipped. But bring your own slippers and toothbrush if you can. If you bring those, you get a free drink with dinner as a thank-you for being eco-friendly. Disposable ones are available if you forget. Sarugakyo Onsen isn't particularly well connected, and it doesn't feel like a bustling hot spring town where you can wander around in a yukata like at Kusatsu Onsen. It seems like a nice place for one or two people to relax quietly by the lake. Next time I'd like to come with my spouse. The "Plum Sauce" sold here is absolutely delicious.

Having both dinner and breakfast in my room, with Lake Akatani's autumn leaves right outside, felt calm and elegant. If you ask for in-room dining, you get to eat while looking out at nature. You can hear some noise, though, since it's a wooden building.

I stayed in Kiritsubo, a room with two single beds. It might feel small if you're on the larger side, but the view across Lake Akatani is stunning. The food was delicious, and the portion size was just right. The hot spring water is light. You book the private baths in 45-minute slots, then can use them without a limit later in the day. With only five guest rooms, getting a time that works is easy. They provide plenty of amenities and shampoo, even men's facial wash. The landlady was very friendly, and the place was incredibly clean everywhere I looked. The cat is adorable, friendly, and doesn't mind being held. If you ask the landlady at check-in, the cat may visit your room. I imagine that depends on the time and the cat's health and mood. There's nothing within walking distance, so you pretty much need to get to the inn and spend the night. That makes it easy to slow down, which I liked. A convenience store is a few minutes away by car, and the moat of Sarugakyo Castle ruins is nearby.