Zazan Minakami

Our room’s private bath had just the right temperature, and the water felt soft enough to leave my skin silky. It was spacious too, easily big enough for four or five adults. We also rented an outdoor private bath for an hour for a modest fee. That was our first soak, and the temperature and river view were both just right. There were at least ten other baths to choose from. The dinner had three options. My friend chose beef steak, and I had Nodoguro, a local fish said to be Kei Nishikori’s favorite. It was one of the best Japanese course meals I’ve had, and we both really enjoyed it. The breakfast buffet had plenty of Japanese and Western choices. We were so full that we skipped lunch. I’d recommend this ryokan to Japanese and international visitors. It cost about ¥20,000 or $135 per person, which we felt was reasonable for the private bath, excellent dinner, and filling breakfast. I recently spent a night here with a friend, booking a room with a private bath and both meals. I have a fond childhood memory of visiting Minakami with my family, though I’m not sure if we stayed at this ryokan then. We took the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Takasaki, then rented a car for the one-hour drive. Check-in at 3pm was smooth. The front desk staff explained the services efficiently, and staff parked our rental car. The room was spacious enough for four or five people. The private bath was in its own room beside the bedroom, separated by clear glass. The low bed was larger than a king and very comfortable. We also had a great view of the river and mountains.

I’ve stayed here more than five times over the past ten years. It’s my little winter hideaway, just a short trip from Tokyo. The hotel is incredibly old and looks haunted, but that’s part of why I keep coming back. Dinner is great, and I always choose it. Breakfast is great too. I’ve barely seen any tourists here. Most guests seem to be older Japanese couples and bikers. The onsen is nice. Tattoos aren’t allowed, though nobody has said anything to me when I’ve used it.

There’s a shuttle bus to the station, or it’s only about a 10-minute walk. Breakfast was a good buffet in a grand dining hall, with a fantastic view over the valley, mountains, and town. The staff were all lovely and helpful. This is a really beautiful ryokan onsen hotel, in a great spot, with amazing baths, including an outdoor rotenburo beside the river.

The shuttle van was especially handy. It connects with Minakami Station or Jomo-Kogen, and I arranged pickup times in English with Japanese and international staff who were happy to answer questions before and during my stay. They made me feel very welcome, even though I seemed to be the only foreign guest that night. I only had time to try one bath, Okutone Hachiyu. It was refreshing, though the outdoor section seemed closed when the onsen first opened that day. Another reason to return. The staff were wonderful, and one night wasn’t enough to experience everything this property has to offer. I liked the aged interiors, though that may just be my taste. I came after seeing tourism push hotel rates around Kanto higher, especially for the weekend I was there, and decided to look farther afield. My room was upgraded to a river view, overlooking the river and town across the gorge. When I came back from dinner, housekeeping had laid out the futons. Dinner was a more traditional meal, while breakfast was a buffet with local dishes and ingredients as well as Western options. I’d definitely come back if I find myself in the area again.