Sora No Uta

The food was the highlight, from dinner at 6:30 PM to the filling breakfast the next morning. Every dish tasted great, and I had no disappointments. The young owner-chef, a handsome man who looked just like a young Yuki Matsumura, was so humble. When I asked about red wine, he brought out three bottles and explained each one carefully. The bath wasn’t outdoors, but the temperature was just right, and I liked being able to use it whenever it was available. And the towels! They had a lovely light scent instead of that damp smell you often get at inns. The guest rooms were also so clean and well cared for, cleaner than I can manage at home. I had a very comfortable stay. We had to climb a really steep road to reach this place, and I could hardly believe an inn was up there (laughs). A lovely lady who reminded me of Haru Kuroki welcomed us. The interior was charming and clean, and they explained the meal and bath schedules. Our second-floor room was Japanese-Western style, with a separate bedroom but no door between the rooms. We could borrow DVDs downstairs and watch them on the player in our room. It’s a long way from Kansai, but I’d definitely stay here again if I go to Yamanashi. Thank you very much!

After a private hot spring soak, we went to the dining hall, sat at a table, had a bottle of beer, and started dinner. The freshly cooked kamameshi was delicious and full of ingredients, with chicken and scallop versions. The chicken had a soy sauce flavor, while the scallop was seasoned with salt. The New Year dishes were homemade by the owner from carefully chosen ingredients, rather than pre-made, and were nicely seasoned. They included candied soybeans, herring roe, squid, octopus, bamboo shoots, kamaboko, and rolled omelet. We also had grilled local amago trout, which was my first time trying it and tasted similar to yamame trout. The Japanese-style roast lean beef was tender and came with a Japanese-style broth. Ozōni with small, soft rice cakes and light dashi finished the meal, followed by coffee jelly with a pleasantly bitter edge and refreshing aftertaste. Thanks for the meal. The chicken and scallop kamameshi were both very good, and the New Year dishes were tasty, though I would have liked to try something different. After that satisfying dinner and the private bath, our stay in Yamanashi Prefecture was relaxing.

The innkeepers’ kindness made me feel at ease, and their thoughtful hospitality came through everywhere. When I asked about an interesting item on the dinner menu, they explained it so kindly that I’d like to try making it at home. It was my first stay, and the inn was just as wonderful as the reviews said. I heard the meals change with the seasons, so I’d like to come back at another time of year.

The facilities are old, but they’re well maintained, and the service is polite and kind. It’s tucked away in a strange spot deep in the forest on the outskirts, but the food is delicious. Don’t rely on your navigation directions: if you ask at the inn, they’ll tell you it chooses a route even locals avoid. I’d like to stay here again.