Dosenbo Sanso

I went blueberry picking a little way from the mountain lodge, which offers it, after driving across the plateau from Nodono. The route there had already caught my interest: from National Route 163 at Oshihara, I drove up to Nodono, then crossed the nearly flat plateau toward Dosenbo. In winter, I imagine snow chains would be essential. Some stretches in Dosenbo are tight enough that cars may struggle to pass, though on foot you could switch into hiking mode from Route 163 below the plateau. The lodge is a possible base for a cheap one-night trip with young kids, blueberry picking and wild boar stew included. Calling it a “village in the sky” may be a bit much, but it’s still close enough to urban areas for a short getaway. Getting around without a car would be hard. There are no supermarkets, convenience stores, or old-style general shops nearby, and someone at the lodge said they wished there were at least one. That’s quite a change from city life, where you can find a few convenience stores within walking distance even late at night. You can also come by car from Wazuka via Mikunigoe Forest Road, then use Route 163 from either Ogawara or Oshihara.

The mountain lodge was a relaxing find in a green-filled area. I came across it about 19 years ago, when I was just starting mountain biking and had made my way up to Dosenbo. My family and I ate wild boar hotpot and rice with matsutake mushrooms there.

City-worn? This secluded inn among the tea fields is a good place to unwind. Dinner began with mountain-picked wild vegetables, then we tucked into a generous pot of simmered wild boar.

The meals use local ingredients, and the young owner made a nice impression. The bath is roomy, and although the toilets are shared, they’re clean. Cyclists stay here too.