Yuyado Umezono

Arigato for a few days of peace and a chance to slow down. It was a quiet, lovely Ryokan, with such a warm, loving feel.

The food at Umezono is the real standout. It's difficult to describe how good it was, with each dish carefully made from local ingredients. The hot springs were lovely too. The inn is a little tucked away, and now and then you hear a train pass, but the place has a nice atmosphere and is well cared for. The building's a bit old, though tidy, and the staff know their work.

I was on the second floor of the main building. The Minobu Line was right there to see from the window, which train fans would love. The inn is old, but clean and without any smell. Dinner was served in the room next door, and the homemade food came in just-right portions for an older person. I couldn't find a drink list or any directions for ordering, so that left me a little confused. I'd hoped to enjoy the hot springs, but both the men's and women's shared baths were small, and there wasn't an outdoor bath. That was disappointing.

I enjoyed how the local dishes arrived in stages, so each hot item could be eaten warm instead of everything being set out at once. Dinner was comforting, and it was served in the next room, a thoughtful touch. When I came back, my bedding had been laid out, which made the stay feel easy and well organized. The baths have both lukewarm and hot water, and I found them very relaxing. Being able to bathe from 5 a.m. was a real plus. The Japanese-style guest rooms were relaxing and carefully cleaned. This place still has the feel of Showa-era hospitality, and its old-fashioned atmosphere made for a comfortable stay. I'd like to come back during fresh greenery or autumn leaves.